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Amigos, I need your help!!!


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16 replies to this topic

#1 Engleman

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 04:50 AM

I bought a used 2014 Mariner Propel last Fall and have had no trouble with it until last week. Everything was fine until I started pedaling with more than light power. The Propel drive felt like it was slipping every time I increased the load on the pedals. As soon as I backed off, the slipping stopped.

I ipulled the drive out of the water several times to check for obstructions like seaweed or fishing line, but there were none. Further, I was unable to reproduce the problem on my bench back home by applying pressure to the prop hub with my hand.

Any ideas?

Also, I bought a spanner wrench to remove the lower drive cartridge, but it won't budge; and I am afraid of boogering up the outside with the wrench any more than I've done already. Anyone had any success by applying heat to the lower casting?

Muchas gracias, amigos.

#2 NOG Admin

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 06:58 AM

Welcome to the forum.

What's the condition of the prop blades? Are they straight and not arched? It almost sounds like the prop is loosing contact, so to speak, with solid water by cavitation. If so, it could be the prop.

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#3 Engleman

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 11:08 AM

The prop is in excellent condition- not sure about the true-ness of the blades, however. I will check with a straight edge when I get home.

Any ideas on getting the lower gear cartridge loose?

Thanks

#4 Engleman

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 12:16 PM

I had the same idea about cavitation at first, though, as I said, I didn't look at the prop with an eye to straightness. It feels like the gears come un-meshed under high loading.

But I can't get the doggone lower cartridge off to look.

#5 NOG Admin

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 03:43 PM

Had you applied heavy pedaling pressure before with no problems? If the gears were not meshing problerly they would definitely feel and sound like they were grinding which you would likely feel transmitted up to the pedals. Prop cavitation feel more like a flutter, almost like a slip, because resistantnce in the water is lessened.

I've had to open some very tight lower transmissions, having to apply much more pressure than you would think is necessary. I've never tried heat but have sprayed some silicone lubricate around the seal in hopes that it would penetrate enough around the o- ring to help loosen it.

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#6 Engleman

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 07:50 AM

Maybe it is cavitation??? I am at a loss right now. And no, prior to the last outing I had no issues under heavy loads whatsoever. As a matter of fact, I towed another kayak (and its owner) several miles back to shore last month. I am still out of town but will look at it today when I get home. Thanks again.

#7 Engleman

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 08:21 AM

Prop is straight and true, in excellent condition, and shows little tendency to flex. I'm taking the drive to a local bike shop to get it opened up, then I will look at the transmission components.
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#8 Mudfish

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Posted 12 April 2017 - 03:10 PM

Is the shear pin properly seated in the groove on the back of the prop?

I had a lower cartridge fail, but the pedaling just got very tight. The cartridge is easy to rebuild.

2015 Native Slayer Propel 13 (Camo)
2012 Native Mariner Propel 12.5 (Sand)
2011 Native Ultimate 14.5 with rudder (Sand)

"Fishing is not a matter of life or death . . . it's more important than that!"


#9 Bucktrout

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Posted 13 April 2017 - 09:38 PM

Finally got my lower drive apart using 3/4 rigid pipe on the handles of the spanner wrench. Have no idea why it was so tight from either factory or dealer prep. Really was ridiculous.

#10 Engleman

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 03:30 PM

Thanks for the replies, fellows. I was boogering up the cover so bad I elected to punt and have the guys at the bike shop take a stab at opening both the lower cartridge and upper transmission covers. They agreed to try but made no promises.

In the meantime, I probably need a different spanner wrench. The one I have (adjustable from Harbor Freight) will not hold tension and the fork splays when I apply pressure. I have ordered another.

Oh, and yes, the shear pin is installed properly.


More to come.

Thanks again.
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#11 Mudfish

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Posted 14 April 2017 - 09:57 PM

I have the Armstrong brand face spanners and they are very good. I bought specific sizes for the side plates and cartridge. They fit snug with no slop or flex. Nice long handles, too.

2015 Native Slayer Propel 13 (Camo)
2012 Native Mariner Propel 12.5 (Sand)
2011 Native Ultimate 14.5 with rudder (Sand)

"Fishing is not a matter of life or death . . . it's more important than that!"


#12 Engleman

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Posted 15 April 2017 - 04:45 PM

Thanks, Mudfish. Could you tell me what sizes you got and where you bought them? I live in central Texas.

#13 Mudfish

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Posted 18 April 2017 - 09:46 PM

I found them on Amazon.

 

Armstrong 34-154 3-Inch Adjustable Face Spanner Wrench

Black oxide

Diameter: 1/4"

 

and

 

Armstrong 34-151 2-Inch Adjustable Face Spanner Wrench

Black oxide

Diameter: 3/16"

 

 

Attached Files


2015 Native Slayer Propel 13 (Camo)
2012 Native Mariner Propel 12.5 (Sand)
2011 Native Ultimate 14.5 with rudder (Sand)

"Fishing is not a matter of life or death . . . it's more important than that!"


#14 Bucktrout

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Posted 19 April 2017 - 01:45 PM

Same wrenches I use. Harbor Freight wrench i bought was not adequate.

#15 Engleman

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Posted 24 April 2017 - 12:14 PM

Thank you for the info.

#16 Squidslayer

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Posted 02 May 2017 - 04:24 AM

I am betting the lock nut is / was loose on the large gear on the crank spindle.

 

Any news to report?

 

Squid


Slayer propel - Blue lagoon

Adelaide - South Australia


#17 Engleman

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 03:29 PM

After a long journey, lots of research and $$ on tools, and much wringing of hands and gnashing of teeth, I got the drive disassembled. Inspected everything. Surprisingly, nothing was loose. The crank bearings, however, were rusted and noisy and have since been replaced. Everything else looked pretty good. The propeller drive cartridge was immaculate. No grease, no corrosion, no nada. So I cleaned and re-applied grease to everything and buttoned it all up.

Here's where it gets interesting. I turned over my yak to ffill in some gouges from a fishing trip to the coast and noticed that my transducer, which had been mounted down through the forward port scupper, had come partially loose and had somehow turned itself sidewise into the water slipstream. The admin of this site had originally suggested cavitation or perhaps ventilation as a reason for the slipping, so I GTS'd (Googled That S--t) causes of cavitation and ventilation. Lo, and behold, one possible cause listed was an obstruction (such as a transducer) just forward of the propeller.

So...I relocated my transducer by attaching it to the bottom of the hull inside the forward hatch on a flat spot; knelt down and said a little prayer to Poseidon, sacrificed a small crayfish and a tadpole, and went out to see if all my efforts had stopped the slipping. Whatever it was worked. I suspect it was never the Propel drive, but rather the skewed transducer. Who'd 've thunk it? It gave me a chance to collect all the tools and bearings I will ever need now, and I know the Propel drive inside and out.

Thanks to all of you for your info and suggestions. Just in time for the kingfish and cobia.
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