Jump to content



Toggle %s Hello Guest

Hello!

If this is your first visit, we invite you to register (click here) for full user access. Membership is free but is required in order to post to our forums. Membership entitles you to a discount on Native Watercraft Accessories purchased through the forum host, Get:Outdoors. Please read over guidelines and rules on the use of the forum here (Click Here)


Thank you.
Welcome Guest Messages 6.0.0 © 2018 VirteQ

Photo
- - - - -

Don't Lose Your Boone Dox Rudder Too! or WORSE

boonedox rudder propel rudder

  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 l8r g8r

l8r g8r

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 44 posts

Posted 04 September 2016 - 10:42 AM

A BIG surprise is awaiting those who have upgraded their Slayer Propel rudder. The screw shipped with the Boone Dox rudder mounts top down through the rear rudder control unit and connects to the threaded spline of the BD rudder.

 

This design under NORMAL use allows the screw to slowly turn while using your rudder controls, with each turn of the rudder/kayak the screw will loosen to the point of separating until the rudder simply falls off with no warning - leaving you literally rudderless and adrift. I was battling 10+ mph winds and suddenly had no control of my direction, was then turned broadside by the winds and began taking waves/water over the side nearly swamping my kayak before I could unleash my paddle to regain control and point the bow back into the wind/waves.

 

Your new $70 Boone Dox rudder will sink to the bottom and is lost forever (I was in 100+ft).

 

Don't make that mistake - check these instructions on correcting the problem and avoiding losing $70 BD rudder, and perhaps even saving your life.

Wish I had.

Attached File  Securing Boone Dox Rubber To Native Slayer Propel.JPG   160.38KB   53 downloads

 

YouTube


  • BabsterNJ and Short Attention Span like this

#2 Muddbuggy

Muddbuggy

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 8 posts
  • LocationSarasota, FL

Posted 05 September 2016 - 03:27 PM

Way to go g8r. Love the step by step directions.

#3 oldkayaker

oldkayaker

    Junior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 31 posts

Posted 06 September 2016 - 10:53 AM

Nice g8r I Work Lowes weekends picked up all supplies Sunday and change Mon am real easy with your instructions thanks. Worth the little effort not to loose the rudder thanks

#4 Skully

Skully

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 48 posts
  • LocationWNY

Posted 06 September 2016 - 05:10 PM

I have been out at least a dozen times or more since I got mine and have never had it loosen. Maybe it takes a few months to loosen enough to notice?  In any case, I am waiting for a bar knob anyways, and plan on taking the rudder on and off every time I Load it from now on to avoid putting all the weight on it. I'll probably just use lock-tite on the threads going into the rudder and trust the bar-knob on top. 



#5 l8r g8r

l8r g8r

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 44 posts

Posted 08 September 2016 - 02:33 AM

Skully - If you are removing rudder after every trip - then the threaded bar with a bar knob topside certainly is better than having to have a screw driver with the machine screw they provide, Sounds like you want to avoid the cable stain problems with a protruding BD rudder too.

 

For all others contemplating this change - I am suggesting if you want to ensure it won't happen look at reversing the connection through the provided directions. Given enough use - it likely will happen to those that do not change. It's about a  $5 /15 minute fix to ensure it no longer can happen and it is now more convenient to maintain rudder tightness/good rudder responsiveness with the bar knob for those with BD rudders. 

 

I don't know what peace of mind while on the water is worth to some - maybe nothing and they will wait till it happens - but similar to reversing the rudder control pulley to put the cables with a half revolution of cable wrapped around the pulley so they won't snap at the connection point due to strain - a zero cost solution, but a little more time/effort to complete - it is another option folks must evaluate the time/effort it takes vs problem avoidance in future. At least when it does happen, as they are paddling in circles, they can recall this posting advice and return to print off the instructions for both issues provide on this forum posting.

 

Best regards to all.


  • Skully and yoda1080 like this

#6 Foul Hooker

Foul Hooker

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 7 posts
  • LocationRedding, CA

Posted 10 September 2016 - 08:55 PM

Thanks for the heads-up I8 g8r.  I did your mod on my yak while replacing my fraying rudder cables with higher quality stuff.  I did it with a different style knob and a SS washer under it to fit in the recess below.  Washer works as a bearing surface for the knob.  It's all basically the same as your design though.  Great job!  



#7 joshuaericlee

joshuaericlee

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 17 posts

Posted 13 September 2016 - 08:41 PM

Awesome write up, I got all the parts I needed from work to do this fix.I have the rudder on a propel 10 and so far haven't had any issues but would rather prevent any 



#8 neckbone

neckbone

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 21 posts

Posted 14 September 2016 - 03:20 PM

Glad I read this. I'll check mine next time I'm out.

#9 stratos260

stratos260

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 13 posts

Posted 03 October 2016 - 08:49 AM

A BIG surprise is awaiting those who have upgraded their Slayer Propel rudder. The screw shipped with the Boone Dox rudder mounts top down through the rear rudder control unit and connects to the threaded spline of the BD rudder.

This design under NORMAL use allows the screw to slowly turn while using your rudder controls, with each turn of the rudder/kayak the screw will loosen to the point of separating until the rudder simply falls off with no warning - leaving you literally rudderless and adrift. I was battling 10+ mph winds and suddenly had no control of my direction, was then turned broadside by the winds and began taking waves/water over the side nearly swamping my kayak before I could unleash my paddle to regain control and point the bow back into the wind/waves.

Your new $70 Boone Dox rudder will sink to the bottom and is lost forever (I was in 100+ft).

Don't make that mistake - check these instructions on correcting the problem and avoiding losing $70 BD rudder, and perhaps even saving your life.
Wish I had.
Securing Boone Dox Rubber To Native Slayer Propel.JPG

YouTube

Thanks for posting this. I'm going to use this method to install my rudder when it gets here. I'm going to do one modification though. Instead of using the knob and jam but on the top I'm going to use a nylon lock nut. That way you can tighten it down snug but not too tight to affect the rudder cables. Do you see any reason that wouldn't work?

#10 l8r g8r

l8r g8r

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 44 posts

Posted 03 October 2016 - 05:24 PM

stratos260

 

As long as you ensure that the 1/4" 20 rod cannot fall back through the rudder control unit it just a matter of preference.

 

For me  I kind of broke the approach into 2 parts.

 

Part one - The knob allows me to adjust the tension easily on the rod attached to the BD rudder through the rear rudder control unit. This is so it won't flop back and forth, yet not to tight which could strain the control cables. This will ensure you can hold course when set with the rudder control arm at your seat. But being just a single "nut" I wanted more to ensure the BD rudder could not fall off if the knob completely untreaded so I added part two.

 

Part two - I put double nylon compression nuts at the end of the rod, above the knob by 1/2". This is to ensure I NEVER lose another BD rudder. The knob may loosen all the way to the double nuts but BD rudder cannot fall off.

 

Again, for me, the knob allows quick tension adjustment which  I checked before each launch to ensure there isn't a strain nor a floppy rudder situation. The knob, for me allows quick adjustments of tension and the double nuts provide piece of mind knowing the rudder cannot fall off......again.

 

If you feel the compression nuts can be set to the proper rudder tension and provide both purposes - go for it.



#11 stratos260

stratos260

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 13 posts

Posted 03 October 2016 - 06:23 PM

stratos260

As long as you ensure that the 1/4" 20 rod cannot fall back through the rudder control unit it just a matter of preference.

For me I kind of broke the approach into 2 parts.

Part one - The knob allows me to adjust the tension easily on the rod attached to the BD rudder through the rear rudder control unit. This is so it won't flop back and forth, yet not to tight which could strain the control cables. This will ensure you can hold course when set with the rudder control arm at your seat. But being just a single "nut" I wanted more to ensure the BD rudder could not fall off if the knob completely untreaded so I added part two.

Part two - I put double nylon compression nuts at the end of the rod, above the knob by 1/2". This is to ensure I NEVER lose another BD rudder. The knob may loosen all the way to the double nuts but BD rudder cannot fall off.

Again, for me, the knob allows quick tension adjustment which I checked before each launch to ensure there isn't a strain nor a floppy rudder situation. The knob, for me allows quick adjustments of tension and the double nuts provide piece of mind knowing the rudder cannot fall off......again.

If you feel the compression nuts can be set to the proper rudder tension and provide both purposes - go for it.

Thanks for your reply. That makes perfect sense about using the knob. The ability to adjust the tension without tools. Thanks again.

#12 Skully

Skully

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 48 posts
  • LocationWNY

Posted 05 October 2016 - 09:11 AM

I posted this Pic in the thread about the cables, but I should put it here as well to see the type of knob I used on mine... 

 

20160923_124607.jpg

 



#13 l8r g8r

l8r g8r

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 44 posts

Posted 05 October 2016 - 01:14 PM

I like the large surface area of this knob shown in Skully's photo above. This provides better contact with the rear rudder control unit.So, as the rear rudder control unit is moved back and forth by the steering control arm at the seat,  the knob then transfers that movement to the 1/4" 20 threaded bolt that is screwed into the rudder itself.

Note too how tight that Skully has the SS control cables attached to rear rudder control unit.

Nice Job Skully - beating this unit has great rudder response and direction control.

No flop here.


  • Skully likes this

#14 Skully

Skully

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 48 posts
  • LocationWNY

Posted 06 October 2016 - 08:43 AM

I like the large surface area of this knob shown in Skully's photo above. This provides better contact with the rear rudder control unit.So, as the rear rudder control unit is moved back and forth by the steering control arm at the seat,  the knob then transfers that movement to the 1/4" 20 threaded bolt that is screwed into the rudder itself.

Note too how tight that Skully has the SS control cables attached to rear rudder control unit.

Nice Job Skully - beating this unit has great rudder response and direction control.

No flop here.

 

 

Thanks g8r,  Yeah, I got the cables about as tight as possible. It's working great, much better tracking than before I redid everything.  The other thing to note about that knob that I really like is that you can see the bolt !  That way all you need is a quick glance to know that it's not gonna fall out anytime soon. 



#15 Aeroshots

Aeroshots

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 17 posts

Posted 22 October 2016 - 05:49 PM

Excellent idea and results. Thanks for sharing.
www.spiritkayakcharters.com

#16 l8r g8r

l8r g8r

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 44 posts

Posted 15 March 2017 - 01:13 AM

Seems there are "new" owners of older model year Slayer Propel 13's that are discovering some of the issues with these models, but not yet corrected by the previous owner. Bumping this thread back up in order to assist these new owners with these types of modifications previously discussed. This solution has worked well for over a year and can be found in at least 2 forum entries regarding Boone Dox rudder installations tips. I hate to see anyone else loose one due to following a simple OEM swap rather than following these steps to "secure" this replacement part forever.

Best regards.


  • mike333h likes this

#17 mtskibum16

mtskibum16

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 15 posts

Posted 26 March 2017 - 02:23 PM

I'm surprised people have lost these.  I wonder if Boonedox has changed the design over time.  To remove mine I have to unthread the screw most of the way, then use a mallet to drive it out of the cable/rudder control unit.  I would be surprised if it came out on its own with no screw even.  Maybe if you remove it often the spline connection loosens up, but mine is an interference fit.



#18 stebbinsgr

stebbinsgr

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 19 September 2017 - 07:17 PM

Totally unnecessary.  Simply use Blue LocTite on the screw that goes into the rudder.  The screw on your did work loose due to rudder turns (the rudder has splines and cannot twist) but more likely from vibration.  Check the screw after you have been out on the water.  If it is NOT still tight, remove it and apply LocTite and re-install.



#19 stebbinsgr

stebbinsgr

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 2 posts

Posted 19 September 2017 - 07:19 PM

Totally unnecessary.  Simply use Blue LocTite on the screw that goes into the rudder.  The screw on your did work loose due to rudder turns (the rudder has splines and cannot twist) but more likely from vibration.  Check the screw after you have been out on the water.  If it is NOT still tight, remove it and apply LocTite and re-install.



#20 CJKOLCUN

CJKOLCUN

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 1 posts
  • LocationCONOVER, NC

Posted 24 October 2017 - 09:23 AM

I checked mine and had to beat on it just to get it out. Maybe the new ones fit a lot tighter.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: boonedox, rudder, propel rudder

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users