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Repairing a hole in an ultimate fx propel

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#1 Bassbrew



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Posted 14 August 2016 - 06:45 PM

I don't know exactly how it happened, if it was the way it was stored on the rack in an extremely hot garage, but my brand new never-been-wet ultimate fx propel has gotten about a 6" gash in the side.  It looks like someone took a knife to it.  Several inches are all the way through.  It seems like it happened pretty easily. Does anyone have any idea of what my options are for fixing this?  I'm feeling incredibly sick to my stomach right now.

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#2 NOG Admin

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Posted 14 August 2016 - 07:42 PM

Man, sorry to see something like this. It looks like a reasonable amount of pressure was applied in some areas. Can you get a close up of the thru hull gashed to better see the edges of the cut. From what can be seen so far it looks like plastic welding would be quite doable for a solid repair.

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#3 boykinsbuddy


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Posted 14 August 2016 - 08:17 PM

I've welded a good many gashes in my day and that is an easy fix...don't feel too sick...it happens. You can get Get:Outdoors to send you some welding sticks and then Google welding plastic kayaks...there are some great how to's out there that will show you how it's done. If you live close to a good kayak dealership, they may also do the repair. Get:Outdoors has a great welder that can make quick work of that.

Just a drop of water in an endless sea...

#4 Bassbrew



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Posted 14 August 2016 - 08:36 PM

Thanks for the info guys!
Maybe the sickness will pass soon...
Now it's off to google I go.
Are there different types of plastic, or are they all the same?

#5 boykinsbuddy


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Posted 15 August 2016 - 08:22 AM

There are different types of plastic. If you get one of the soldering iron type welders from Harbor Freight, it will come with some softer black plastic sticks...it will work but you will have a black line in your boat. Get:Outdoors will have the right color or close to the right color. It won't take much so if you plan on doing any drilling on your boat for accessories, save your shavings and use those.

Just a drop of water in an endless sea...

#6 Mikem



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Posted 15 August 2016 - 03:33 PM

 The method I like is to use a high amp output soldering gun using narrow, (1/8") strips of polyethylene plastic. As mentioned above your best bet is to use plastic from Native to match your color, Lizard Lick.

I like a soldering tip that is wide and flat.




 ​After plastic is melted into place, I sand plastic down smooth with 200 wet paper and last step is to 'lightly' go over weld area with a butane torch as the flame will melt sanded surface smooth.

 If you happen to be in Tampa Bay area send me a message. Other wise as already mentioned is 'search' your area for plastic welding services. 

#7 Tallgrass05



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Posted 15 August 2016 - 03:35 PM

Plastic welding, practice on some scrap plastic first. The idea is to melt the edges so they flow together and fuse without burning the plastic. Try doing both the inner side and then the outer side if the wall of the kayak is thick enough. You can also put a layer of 3M Marine Sealant 5200 on the inside for a little extra watertight insurance. I actually reattached a whole bow that had been sawed off the kayak with plastic welding.

#8 Bradleto


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Posted 16 August 2016 - 12:48 PM



A scratch like that, about in that particular place as best I can see, can be caused by the kayak being loaded onto or offloaded from a trailer.


If the bunks are not properly distanced apart, a kayak can "slip" and gouge a scar like that into the plastic.  That would be my guess as to its origin, not heat in the garage.


I wish I had some idea how to fix it but I don't. 



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