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Propel drive clamp crack


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27 replies to this topic

#1 vuth1970

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 10:24 AM

Hello...

 

Been Native Slayer Propel owner for 2 years, now have cracked clamp over the thwart tube on my slayer 13.  Any suggestion?



#2 NOG Admin

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Posted 23 May 2016 - 12:20 PM

If you're the original owner and it has been less than the two year warranty period you should contact the dealer of purchase and submit a warranty claim. If neither of these conditions are in effect some have self-reapired by having the clamp, which is cast aluminum, welded or drill and bolt thru the clamp and thwart tube, while others have used hose clamps, depending on the amount of cracking.


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#3 DanielChamberlain

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 05:44 AM

An obvious design problem with an easy supplier fix...but they just let it keep happening. 


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#4 NOG Admin

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 06:33 AM

Clamp area cracking in the older #301 drives had more instances than the current #401 models. If install guidelines and handling care of the drive are followed there have been much less instances with 401's however if a defect is going to be revealed it will more than likely occur within the warranty period.


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#5 TNorman2

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 10:50 AM

The thing is it shouldn't crack at all for the money spent. The issue needs to be addressed.
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#6 Squidslayer

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 06:16 PM

We keep hearing about this and nothing happens in regards to correcting the design defect.

 

Native don't think it's a problem because it "only affects .05%" of drives.

 

This .05% may be true for warranty claims but Native have no idea how many units are cracking after the warranty period.......Chalk me up for a crack with no warranty.


Slayer propel - Blue lagoon

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#7 Skully

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Posted 14 September 2016 - 09:02 AM

So I noticed the other day that mine cracked. Brand new model, only had it a couple of months. I was careful not to tighten too much when I installed it -  just enough to not let the thwart tube move at all. Attached File  20160908_193945.jpg   214.24KB   5 downloadsAttached File  20160908_193922.jpg   176.63KB   3 downloads

 

Good news is that ACK is doing a replacement for me and it will be here on Friday. They are letting me wait until it arrives before having to send the old one back.  (was hoping I could just keep it as a backup)

 I can still use the cracked one by tightening down the bolts, but I feared eventually it would give.  

 

So...   any advice on how to tighten the new one when it comes to make sure it doesn't happen again??   I don't own a torque wrench . 

 

 

 



#8 manno

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Posted 14 September 2016 - 09:19 AM

I'm in the same boat. About to return mine for a replacement due to the cracking.

I'd considered swapping out the original 1" tube for a tube with an ever so slightly larger OD, 26mm. I havnt checked if itll fit, but it might mean that the alloy doesn't have to bend as far to clamp onto the tube? Just a thought

#9 boykinsbuddy

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Posted 14 September 2016 - 10:30 AM

I just picked up a new SP13 last week and noticed that Native no longer includes the hex head torque wrench. In the included instructions, they state to use the included standard 4mm hex wrench to tighten the screws to 35 in/lbs of torque. Unfortunately my hands are not calibrated to the proper in/lbs required for the proper instructions. I will have to go and dig up a torque wrench to set the proper in/lbs.

 

For those that have a broken clamp out of warranty...here is the fix: https://www.amazon.c...ds=climax clamp

Slide one of these on each side of the bar and tighten away. I would also wonder if putting a small washer in the seam of the clamp around each screw would prevent the clamp from doing any flexing or closing too much during pedaling? And I wonder if putting a set of these clamps on before the issue happens if that would prevent the cracking down the road?? The needed fix is to redesign the clamp where it is a 2 part clamp like almost all of your mountain bike handlebar stems. 2 bolts on top and 2 bolts on the bottom of the clamp. I think what is breaking the clamp is the actual side to side torque created by the pedaling motion. If any part is going to break from extended flexing over time, the bar itself should be designed to be the sacrificial part that breaks OR the bolts...not the clamp. The clamp should be  the bombproof part since it is not replaceable.


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#10 Skully

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Posted 14 September 2016 - 01:54 PM

The needed fix is to redesign the clamp where it is a 2 part clamp like almost all of your mountain bike handlebar stems. 2 bolts on top and 2 bolts on the bottom of the clamp. I think what is breaking the clamp is the actual side to side torque created by the pedaling motion. If any part is going to break from extended flexing over time, the bar itself should be designed to be the sacrificial part that breaks OR the bolts...not the clamp. The clamp should be  the bombproof part since it is not replaceable.

 

I think you are right about the side to side..   That's what made me realize mine was cracked to begin with. It may have been cracking all along, but I didn't notice anything until I was pedaling along and the unit started to move side to side a little bit.  I stood up and inspected the front and noticed the crack at that time. I didn't have the allen wrench on me ( had every other one, btw ),  so I had to leave the water for the day.  :/ 

 

_



#11 Texasporty

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Posted 23 February 2017 - 08:27 PM

Noticed mine was moving side to side today. It is cracked exactly like the pick above. Bought last fall and really used very little. Will contact dealer in the morning and see what happens. I see there is no contact numbers on the Native Web Site.

#12 Skully

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 10:29 AM

I'm in the same boat. About to return mine for a replacement due to the cracking.

I'd considered swapping out the original 1" tube for a tube with an ever so slightly larger OD, 26mm. I havnt checked if itll fit, but it might mean that the alloy doesn't have to bend as far to clamp onto the tube? Just a thought

 

I wonder if you could just throw a few wraps of duct tape around the center of the tube. Once it's squeezed through you probably wouldn't have to tighten the clamp much at all. 



#13 Texasporty

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Posted 01 March 2017 - 09:17 PM

Thumbs Up to Native for replacing my propel drive. Wish there was a good solution to prevent this in the future.

#14 Pelican

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 07:17 PM

Here's the problem I have with mine, not a crack but it looks like the bolts pulled through the clamp. Attached File  image.jpeg   417.45KB   6 downloads

#15 J.A. Veil

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Posted 12 March 2017 - 07:35 PM

I just picked up a new SP13 last week and noticed that Native no longer includes the hex head torque wrench. In the included instructions, they state to use the included standard 4mm hex wrench to tighten the screws to 35 in/lbs of torque. Unfortunately my hands are not calibrated to the proper in/lbs required for the proper instructions. I will have to go and dig up a torque wrench to set the proper in/lbs.

 

For those that have a broken clamp out of warranty...here is the fix: https://www.amazon.c...ds=climax clamp

Slide one of these on each side of the bar and tighten away. I would also wonder if putting a small washer in the seam of the clamp around each screw would prevent the clamp from doing any flexing or closing too much during pedaling? And I wonder if putting a set of these clamps on before the issue happens if that would prevent the cracking down the road?? The needed fix is to redesign the clamp where it is a 2 part clamp like almost all of your mountain bike handlebar stems. 2 bolts on top and 2 bolts on the bottom of the clamp. I think what is breaking the clamp is the actual side to side torque created by the pedaling motion. If any part is going to break from extended flexing over time, the bar itself should be designed to be the sacrificial part that breaks OR the bolts...not the clamp. The clamp should be  the bombproof part since it is not replaceable.

The clamp shown in the link above is steel with a black oxide coating.  I don't know how well  it will hold up in saltwater.  Yesterday I ordered the same clamp made from stainless  (1C-100-S) from Home Depot's website.  They will ship it at no cost to my local store.  My cost for two of them, including sales tax, was about $24.  


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#16 Squidslayer

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 04:56 AM

Here's the problem I have with mine, not a crack but it looks like the bolts pulled through the clamp. attachicon.gifimage.jpeg

Crikey, first time I've seen a drive crack there.

To me it looks like it has been well and truly over-tightened.

 

Squid


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Slayer propel - Blue lagoon

Adelaide - South Australia


#17 Pelican

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Posted 13 March 2017 - 05:20 PM

Native is sending a new propel drive.

#18 Pelican

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 09:33 PM

Picked up my new propel drive this morning to replace the one that broke.
Native has come up with a new clamp design.

Attached Files


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#19 AKFishOn

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 06:20 PM

Picked up my new propel drive this morning to replace the one that broke.
Native has come up with a new clamp design.

 Too bad there's no way to retrofit pre-2017 drives, my 2014 is cracked all the way through. Second owner, no warranty.  Just picked up a used 2015, we'll see how long it lasts before it cracks as well.  New clamp design makes a lot more sense.


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#20 Squidslayer

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Posted 03 April 2017 - 09:04 PM

Thanks Native for the redesign and thanks Pelican for posting pics.

Was unaware of this until today.

 

Squid


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Slayer propel - Blue lagoon

Adelaide - South Australia





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