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A glass skid plate? Poly yak -


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Jdog

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Posted 12 January 2015 - 09:55 PM

OK been using the keeleazy I installed, got pics on another thread. After much use it has held up well, I have no issue with it other than I'd have used 4" width on bow and stern not 2". Where this stuff fails is launching off a concrete ramp. It will take sand and stuff but not rock and concrete.

Next thought is Sglass as a skid bow and stern where most contact is made. To do so takes a flame treatment for proper epoxy adhesion. No worries though it sounds scary but has anyone done this???

Just wonderin - collecting the stuff now!

Thanks

J

#2 boykinsbuddy

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 05:38 PM

When you flame the hull, you are basically running the flame over the hull to change the molecular polarity...you are just running the flame over it for a split second and not heating anything. It works for paint, so I don't see that it would not for your project. One other thing I would consider is the Kevlar skid plates made for plastic canoes like the Old Town Discoveries. The old style you would mix the epoxy and mold the Kevlar felt to the hull, let it harden, pop it off, then glue it back on with a rubber type cement. ANyways...those Kevlar pads worked great on rocks, etc.


Just a drop of water in an endless sea...

#3 Jdog

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 06:21 PM

Moving toward with this idea. I will take pics of what and how I do. Most importantly I will take pics of how it turns out!

#4 Mikem

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Posted 08 June 2015 - 09:04 PM

Not familiar with Sglass but you mention 'heat treatment' for epoxy adhesion.

 I have made several repairs over the past 6 or 7 years with West System G/flex epoxy which also requires heat treatment.

This is different that what Boykinsbuddy is speaking of.

 A heat gun or torch is applied for several seconds to drive away the oil that is in polyethylene so that the epoxy will stick. The surface is quite hot, almost to hot to touch. The epoxy can be applied when water poured over the area remains on the surface and must be dried off.

Once the oil is driven away by the heat, you have near 15 to 20 mins. before the oil is reabsorbed back into the heated area.

repair5-20142_zpse993479b.jpg

This is a repair with G/flex to a worn through keel on a customers yak. It has been 2 years and he has very little wear showing. 



#5 Jdog

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Posted 15 June 2015 - 07:41 AM

Ok got the bow glassed with Sglass. Basically I sharpie marked where I wanted the skid plate and then taped off that area. I then sanded the area. Then I flame treated the area and wiped down with isopropyl 70% alchohol. I was gonna glass but had to run to station for call so it was a following day I got back on it. When I restarted I flame treated once more, immediately again did the isopropyl wipe down. Mixed Gflex and brushed the area down with epoxy and began with first layer of glass. I did the first layer, let cure to green then added some shorter strips to the area that sees most wear. Let cure, sanded a bit and done -----

I am along way from giving a thumbs up or down on this project, I know the deal of glass on poly. I followed some info from West Systems to do this but we will see. I am gonna wait to do the stern til I see how the bow hold up.

Of course I will post good or bad after some trips and some abuse.

Jason

#6 Old Timer

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 08:00 AM

It would appear that you will be successful and I sure hope so.  I did a repair to a poly boat with glass a few years ago and it has held up well but I have never liked the look of it.  I was perhaps not thinking of the asthetics as much as I should have.

 

The kevlar approach intrigues me.  Can you ellaborate?

 



#7 Old Timer

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 08:03 AM

btw, I also used the Keeleazy.  I don't like the bubbles I left in it.  Hoping it works and lasts a long time.



#8 Jdog

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 03:24 PM

I used the keeleazy and I like it. It held up well against all comers EXCEPT concrete boat ramps. No matter how much I try there comes a time I have to move my yak on the ramp and it will gouge the keeleazy and get to the yak. I am just too OCD to not worry about it! :-) it is just my nature. If you can launch from natural areas all the time you will be fine with Keeleazy, just avoid Dday style bow on boat landings!

They make a kevlar pad style skid plate for canoes but that is different and not a good choice for the yak?? There is a difference but I am no expert any anything.

Aesthetics of the glass? The Gflex resin dried fairly clear and if you do it right or sand it smooth the glass just shows the camo of the boat - you can tell the skid plate it there but it is transparent - I think it looks good. ????

I will take a pic and show yall.

#9 Jdog

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 10:25 PM

Well I have forgotten pics but since I stopped by last on this post I have had the chance to put some trips in and really abuse the skid plates. So far they have done just fine and held just fine. Saving my bow and stern keels. I still have keeleazy on the "pontoons" and it has done just fine but all the pontoons ever see is some sand and shell and the keeleazy can handle that.

Just thought I'd give an update.

#10 kmuddzy

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Posted 22 September 2017 - 02:29 PM

Hi Jdog.  Any updates to how it held up?  I used to abuse Mad River and OT canoes in the river doing class II & III rapids, not to mention beaching it and sliding it over rocks and boat launches.  A boat is meant to be used and I solo a lot so I can only worry about it so much.  I put protection on my canoes and they held up well.  I just got a new-to- me U14.5.  It's in good condition but 1 trip on the river and my bad habits already show on the keels and hull.  Doing my research for protecting poly kayaks/canoes it sounds like G/flex is the best stuff to use.  Thanks!






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