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#9713 not roughing it anymore

Posted by YakkinSETX on 08 March 2010 - 12:27 PM

Re: not roughing it anymore Very nice! We enjoy going camping, problem is we haven't been in over two years. Life just keeps us busy with work and two teenagers in school. We are going to try to get out this spring.
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#1022 not roughing it anymore

Posted by sixstring on 08 March 2010 - 08:17 AM

A while back I'd unroll my sleeping bag and sleep by the fire or under a tarp, those days are past. :( This is my roughing it now. The tent has a tunnel so I can attach it to the tail gate of my Element. Comfy boat, comfy camp this is the way for me now.
  • GKING, RubyeEscave, Keshiatus and 11 others like this


#30824 White Bass from my Slayer Propel 13

Posted by redfishross on 28 May 2015 - 07:32 AM

Great day on the river !
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#27408 Attention Slayer Propel Owners who fish the salt water!

Posted by JohnKiffmeyer on 05 May 2014 - 04:35 PM

Hi Riddler... John Kiffmeyer here from Native Watercraft. I'm the Propel Product Manager and noticed the problem you were having with our drive. I'm very disappointed to hear you have been having rust issues and would like to help you in any way I can to resolve them. The Propel unit was designed to work in a salt water environment and this is definitely not common. I hear you that other have had this problem and we are constantly working to improve our system. However, the simple fact is that your Propel bearing is having rust issues and it's not right. I will work to make it right for you and get you any information or parts that you need. If you do choose to go find your own bearing, that is a trade number 6203, dimensions 17 x 40 x 12mm. A couple of things I should mention: The bearing is not "rusted" into the cap. It is bonded into place. This is necessary to keep it from moving under the load of the helical gears and the thrust/radial load caused by them. If you do remove the bearing, use Loctite 638 to bond the new bearing into place inside the cap, and make sure to use the recommend primer as there will generally be some residual oil on the new bearing and it needs to be removed. Also, the caps have Blue Loctite on the threads to keep the caps from vibrating loose during shipping, trailer carrying, and just general use. I realize that makes it difficult to remove, but it's also what keeps it solid. There is an o-ring that compresses when the cap is tight, and that adds drag to the system as you loosen it as well. It sounds as though the amount of force you had to use to remove the cap was more than normal, and I will look into that as well. One quick note on the grease, if you are not going to use the Native Watercraft recommended Teflon grease, than I recommend that you do a compatibility testing with it to make sure it doesn't cause the gear grease to separate. Not all greases are compatible and if they cause each other to separate it can cause more damage than greasing generally solves. Which is why we recommend only using the Finish Line Teflon Lubricant. I hear you and recognize the issues you are having, I realize it is frustrating and I am here to help you in any way possible. Please let me know how I can be of assistance. Best regards, John
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#35656 Paddle Storage

Posted by Bradleto on 10 January 2017 - 11:45 AM

Yes, this is an attached photo of a Slayer Propel 10 where its owner unscrewed the handle on the starboard side, then mounted cam lock paddle holders and then re-mounted the handle. As I recall, it might take a slightly longer screw.

 

The advantages in my opinion are: 1) the paddle isn't broken down into two pieces so it is more quickly available; 2) it is close at hand; 3) it keeps free track you might need for other things; and 4) it is one of the more elegant and attractive set-ups.

 

I like this slightly more than a similar set-up where bungee cord secures the paddle.

 

Brad

 

[/URL]"> http://Paddle%20mount%20alternative_zpsw41un50e


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#35158 Rudder cable snapped.

Posted by chevybob20 on 25 September 2016 - 08:36 PM

OK, I've just read more about wire cables than I care to admit. To make a long story short, Native is using a cable of a 1x19 design. This cable is not rated to be used with a pulley which is exactly the application it is employed. This is because the stiffness of the design is not rated to handle the fatigue causing premature failure. Furthermore, if slack is introduced in the cable, extra fatigue is introduced at the set screw causing even worse life of the cable. I also believe that the stresses added by banging the rudder during loading/unloading and launching happen more than most yakkers are aware of or care to admit.

 

This might be an oversight by Native. If I read correctly, they changed from a 2 piece cable designed rudder control (a pure push-pull design) to a one piece drive cable pulley design. In a "push - pull" application, the cable (1x19 construction) was correct. When they instituted a pulley in the design, they should have switched to a 7x7 design.

 

I recommend using a 7x7, 1.5mm, 302/304 Stainless Steel  cable if you use the yak in a salt environment. Replace the cable every 2 to 3 years regardless as standard maintenance.

 

If you only use your yak in fresh water, I recommend a galvanized steel cable, 7x7, 1.5mm. Galvanized steel cables are stronger than the stainless cables and exhibit longer life under fatigue wear like when used with a pulley. Replace the cables every 2 - 3 years as regular maintenance.

 

 

Here are my references:

 

http://thecableconne...rand-cable.html

 

http://www.savacable.com/sava_cat.pdf

 

Page 64 of the below linked book talks about not using 1x19 cable over a pulley

https://books.google... pulley&f=false  


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#35079 Propel drive clamp crack

Posted by boykinsbuddy on 14 September 2016 - 10:30 AM

I just picked up a new SP13 last week and noticed that Native no longer includes the hex head torque wrench. In the included instructions, they state to use the included standard 4mm hex wrench to tighten the screws to 35 in/lbs of torque. Unfortunately my hands are not calibrated to the proper in/lbs required for the proper instructions. I will have to go and dig up a torque wrench to set the proper in/lbs.

 

For those that have a broken clamp out of warranty...here is the fix: https://www.amazon.c...ds=climax clamp

Slide one of these on each side of the bar and tighten away. I would also wonder if putting a small washer in the seam of the clamp around each screw would prevent the clamp from doing any flexing or closing too much during pedaling? And I wonder if putting a set of these clamps on before the issue happens if that would prevent the cracking down the road?? The needed fix is to redesign the clamp where it is a 2 part clamp like almost all of your mountain bike handlebar stems. 2 bolts on top and 2 bolts on the bottom of the clamp. I think what is breaking the clamp is the actual side to side torque created by the pedaling motion. If any part is going to break from extended flexing over time, the bar itself should be designed to be the sacrificial part that breaks OR the bolts...not the clamp. The clamp should be  the bombproof part since it is not replaceable.


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#33481 Transporting 13' Slayer

Posted by Aeroshots on 14 April 2016 - 02:38 PM

I tend to go a little overboard, but this system works for me.

Attached Files


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#29686 Sheepshead in the Mariner

Posted by Mudfish on 22 December 2014 - 08:58 PM

Here's a decent Sheepshead I recently caught from my Mariner in shallow water over a shell bottom.

Attached Files


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#36629 Dogs

Posted by Scooty Puff Jr on 12 June 2017 - 08:56 PM

has anyone tricked out their slayer propel to be able to take their dog with them?  Thanks  

My wife and I have taken both of our dogs, we just put a towel down and put their dog life vests on em and away we go.  It takes a little getting used to. 

Attached Files


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#36411 2017 Manta Ray propel review

Posted by Scooty Puff Jr on 15 May 2017 - 07:53 AM

Hey guys,  just wanted to jump in and offer up my review of the 2017 Manta Ray Propel 12.  I struggled to find much in the way of reviews of the boat prior to my purchase, it seems all the information coming out is for the Titan this year (rightfully so I guess).  I made a couple video's of my 2017 Lizard Lick so hopefully it can help someone else make the right decision.  Let me know if you have any questions or if you think of something I could add.  I haven't started rigging her yet so I am up for suggestions.  Sorry the video is in 2 parts, I couldn't get GoPro Studio to play nice with the full video so I ended up editing it 3 or 4 times before I decided to split it up.

 

 Pt. 1

 

Pt. 2  


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#36373 is the pedal drive secure on slayer propel 10?

Posted by Mudfish on 07 May 2017 - 12:58 PM

I recently witnessed a friend of mine flip his Hobie PA in a creek and unfortunately lost his Mirage Drive, along with some other gear. Those drives are VERY expensive... all the brands are. So, I decided to install a homemade lanyard for my Slayer Propel drive unit. I already have one on my Mariner Propel. I bought all Stainless Steel items from Home Depot; eye bolt, nuts, washers. I already had the SS carabiner clip and paracord. Easy to install. Simple, but effective. I bought the SS Eye bolt a little long, thinking I would need to use a backing plate, but after drilling the 1/4" hole through the deck I realized just how thick the Slayer's deck is. I used large SS fender washers, so I really don't think it needs a backing plate.
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#36246 Why NOT to buy a slayer propel 10? Real experience please! Thx

Posted by koyote on 23 April 2017 - 03:13 PM

Manno, your videos make your point.  BKB, your explanation is very clear.  I stand corrected. 

 

This is a great forum and very helpful to those with problems.  Apologies to all.


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#35823 Brand New SP13 Owner

Posted by maturin on 13 February 2017 - 03:10 PM

Hi all...

 

Just wanted to introduce myself.   Just picked up my Slayer and am looking forward to getting out on the water, and wanted to see if there is any hindsight anyone would want to share before spend any more money...

 

Any hard lessons to learn right off the bat?  Any essentials gear wise? 

 

Im located in the PNW, and the winter duldrums are just starting to ease a bit.   Looking forward to a great season.


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#33865 Native Slayer Propel 13 Scupper Transducer Mount PVC

Posted by Pedalpower on 12 May 2016 - 02:49 PM

Hello all, I am a new member to this forum, and I wanted to start off my membership with a how-to post.  I have had my Slayer 13 propel for about a month now, and I have been searching for a way to mount a transducer and fish finder without making any holes in the boat, and a way to quickly and easily take it on and off.  I finally made my own mount out of some very simple items that you can get at any hardware store.  I have used this out on the water several times now, and the fish finder has read clear and perfect every time.  I decided on a simple Humminbird 197c color fish finder.  It has a transducer similar to a Lowrance unit, buy you could modify your PVC to fit most transducers.  I would say that the chirp or down scan type transducers may be a bit more difficult.  I was going for simplicity.  I wanted water depth, temp, a clear image, and something that was inexpensive in case it got damaged.  For an extra $7 I got a two year replacement warranty.  As you can see in the pictures I used a piece of 1 inch PVC pipe, cut down to length.  This will depend on which scupper hole you choose to mount in.  I used the front scupper in the forward compartment.  That way I can keep the battery box in there with it, and I don't have to worry about stepping on it.  

 

Transducer mount

-1 inch pvc pipe. Cut out to fit transducer and bolt to hold it in place.

-Run the wire through the middle.

-attach a 3/4 inch threaded adapter

-get a 2 inch to 3/4 inch female threaded reducer

-glue a 2 inch cap on top and drill a hole in it big enough for the wire to fit

-get a rubber stopper and put a slice in it for the wire to run though

this will serve as a plug for your hole in the 2 inch cap

-That is it, you can screw on and off whenever you want 

 

Battery box and fish finder mount

-small pelican box or whatever you have 

-I use a piece of plastic cutting board for my mount 

-2 mighty bolt mounts that I had left over from my wilderness kayak

these things are great because you can take them on and off whenever you want 

 

Super easy, out of the way.  I don't pack a whole bunch of fishing stuff in my front hatch, but I can still fit my rain coat and pants in there and my life jacket (no I do not wear it)

 

Hope this helps someone out!  Tight lines everyone

Attached Files


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#33074 Is this worth trying to repair

Posted by skidsteer on 19 February 2016 - 04:00 PM

A grinder with a wire brush is your friend ...

 

Clean everything, replace the bearings, and drive it like you stole it ... 

 

(bearings are pretty cheap)

 

Or just send it to me and call it good   :D


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#30923 Loving the Slayer Propel for Bass Fishing

Posted by rocketball on 06 June 2015 - 07:17 AM

I had high hopes when I ordered this boat back in December and so far its been more than I expected. Thank you Native for designing such a great boat. Got into some awesome smallmouth fishing last weekend and put this video together! enjoy

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=THJzA5D-Uoc


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#30809 Slayer Propel 10 or 13?

Posted by J.A. Veil on 27 May 2015 - 07:02 AM

Here are some quick answers to  your questions.  I own both the SP 10 and the SP 13 so I can compare them easily.

- Does the 13 track better than the 10?  

Yes.  The longer water line and slightly narrower beam lets the SP 13 track more easily.  But the difference is not great.

 

- Is the 13 considerably more stable than the 10? i.e. is it better for standing and fishing?

As an old, tall, and heavy guy, I never attempt to stand in any of my kayaks.  The size and layout of the cockpit area is very similar in both boats.  I would not expect much of a difference.

 

- What are the advantages of the 13 over the 10?

1) The SP 13 is faster by roughly 0.5 mph at cruising speed (measured by GPS speed over ground -- I have FF/GPS units on both SP models).  At faster speeds, the SP 13 is likely to show an even greater advantage in speed.  Both pedal easily and smoothly.  I did not realize I was moving more slowly in the SP 10 until I checked the speed on the GPS.

2) If you are going to be fishing or boating in rough water (my definition  is waves >1.5 ft) the SP10 is not as stable.  When you are moving with large following seas or large seas from the rear quarter, the stern of the SP 10 can be pushed around.  If you are not operating under rough water conditions, this is not an issue at all.  

3) The SP 13 is slightly better in the water because of the onboard storage space and greater speed and stability.  But this is counteracted by the great advantage of the SP 10 on land.  The hull weight difference (57 lbs vs. 85 lbs) is very noticeable, especially when you are tired at the end of a long trip.  

4) The standard Native rudder provides decent control on the SP 10.  It is acceptable but less effective on the SP 13 -- many owners upgrade to an after-market rudder on the SP 13.

 

Without doing a much more detailed analysis, both versions are excellent.  You need to choose the one that best fits your needs for the way you fish, how you will store the kayak at home, and how you will transport it to the launch point.  


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#29859 A Group of Yakkers is Called ........... ????

Posted by 02seedoc on 19 January 2015 - 11:56 AM

If they are fishing, usually a pack of liars :)


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#29835 Attention Slayer Propel Owners who fish the salt water!

Posted by opoteat on 14 January 2015 - 09:23 AM

John, I too am blown away by the support shown here. I've had my Propel 10 since November and love it. My wife just bought the cart yesterday as my birthday present so now I no longer have to lift it onto my older scupper dolley. It makes me feel comfortable that I made the right decision when I see the company standing behind it like this.
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