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Most Liked Content
Posted by redfishross on 28 May 2015 - 07:32 AM
Posted by JohnKiffmeyer on 05 May 2014 - 04:35 PM
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Posted by Bradleto on 10 January 2017 - 11:45 AM
Yes, this is an attached photo of a Slayer Propel 10 where its owner unscrewed the handle on the starboard side, then mounted cam lock paddle holders and then re-mounted the handle. As I recall, it might take a slightly longer screw.
The advantages in my opinion are: 1) the paddle isn't broken down into two pieces so it is more quickly available; 2) it is close at hand; 3) it keeps free track you might need for other things; and 4) it is one of the more elegant and attractive set-ups.
I like this slightly more than a similar set-up where bungee cord secures the paddle.
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Posted by chevybob20 on 25 September 2016 - 08:36 PM
OK, I've just read more about wire cables than I care to admit. To make a long story short, Native is using a cable of a 1x19 design. This cable is not rated to be used with a pulley which is exactly the application it is employed. This is because the stiffness of the design is not rated to handle the fatigue causing premature failure. Furthermore, if slack is introduced in the cable, extra fatigue is introduced at the set screw causing even worse life of the cable. I also believe that the stresses added by banging the rudder during loading/unloading and launching happen more than most yakkers are aware of or care to admit.
This might be an oversight by Native. If I read correctly, they changed from a 2 piece cable designed rudder control (a pure push-pull design) to a one piece drive cable pulley design. In a "push - pull" application, the cable (1x19 construction) was correct. When they instituted a pulley in the design, they should have switched to a 7x7 design.
I recommend using a 7x7, 1.5mm, 302/304 Stainless Steel cable if you use the yak in a salt environment. Replace the cable every 2 to 3 years regardless as standard maintenance.
If you only use your yak in fresh water, I recommend a galvanized steel cable, 7x7, 1.5mm. Galvanized steel cables are stronger than the stainless cables and exhibit longer life under fatigue wear like when used with a pulley. Replace the cables every 2 - 3 years as regular maintenance.
Here are my references:
Page 64 of the below linked book talks about not using 1x19 cable over a pulley
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Posted by Mudfish on 07 May 2017 - 12:58 PM
- Native Slayer Propel Lanyard %2812-10-16%29 %281%29.jpg 63.1KB 0 downloads
- Native Slayer Propel Lanyard %2812-10-16%29 %282%29.jpg 67.79KB 0 downloads
- Native Slayer Propel Lanyard %2812-10-16%29 %283%29.jpg 43.16KB 0 downloads
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Posted by koyote on 23 April 2017 - 03:13 PM
Manno, your videos make your point. BKB, your explanation is very clear. I stand corrected.
This is a great forum and very helpful to those with problems. Apologies to all.
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Posted by boykinsbuddy on 18 February 2017 - 02:06 PM
Many of us certainly have noticed and feel the same way. Being on their pro staff we make comments every chance we get, and the suggestions are in there for a dedicated offshore paddle kayak that will handle going out beyond the breakers and also a river dedicated boat that will compete with the new offerings from other brands. It can be discouraging to see the likes of the competitors constantly coming out with new paddle kayaks and upgrades to older models while Native keeps churning out Propel variations if you aren't into the pedal-craft thing. Working at a shop like Get:Outdoors that carries all of the competitors, I definitely haven't let any interesting models go unnoticed or unpaddled. Competition is a good thing and Native seems to be happy continuing their line of new Propel models since that is where their bread and butter is coming from right now...but with that said...there are still plenty of paddlers that don't want a pedal drive or can't afford plopping down well over $2K for a pedal drive, that do have the money to put into a new paddle kayak. Where those paddlers end up is up in the air right now since there isn't a competitive craft coming out of Native for the time being or any time soon.
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Posted by maturin on 13 February 2017 - 03:10 PM
Just wanted to introduce myself. Just picked up my Slayer and am looking forward to getting out on the water, and wanted to see if there is any hindsight anyone would want to share before spend any more money...
Any hard lessons to learn right off the bat? Any essentials gear wise?
Im located in the PNW, and the winter duldrums are just starting to ease a bit. Looking forward to a great season.
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Posted by boykinsbuddy on 14 September 2016 - 10:30 AM
I just picked up a new SP13 last week and noticed that Native no longer includes the hex head torque wrench. In the included instructions, they state to use the included standard 4mm hex wrench to tighten the screws to 35 in/lbs of torque. Unfortunately my hands are not calibrated to the proper in/lbs required for the proper instructions. I will have to go and dig up a torque wrench to set the proper in/lbs.
For those that have a broken clamp out of warranty...here is the fix: https://www.amazon.c...ds=climax clamp
Slide one of these on each side of the bar and tighten away. I would also wonder if putting a small washer in the seam of the clamp around each screw would prevent the clamp from doing any flexing or closing too much during pedaling? And I wonder if putting a set of these clamps on before the issue happens if that would prevent the cracking down the road?? The needed fix is to redesign the clamp where it is a 2 part clamp like almost all of your mountain bike handlebar stems. 2 bolts on top and 2 bolts on the bottom of the clamp. I think what is breaking the clamp is the actual side to side torque created by the pedaling motion. If any part is going to break from extended flexing over time, the bar itself should be designed to be the sacrificial part that breaks OR the bolts...not the clamp. The clamp should be the bombproof part since it is not replaceable.
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Posted by Hannzo24 on 01 September 2016 - 10:36 AM
I've been using the BerleyPro rudder since April. Here are my pros and cons:
- Greatly increased turning Radius.
- Improved tracking, but not earth shattering improvement.
- Very durable.
- Excellent customer service from the owner of BerleyPro. Can't say enough about how awesome the guy is. He is extremely proud of his work, if there are any problems at all he will take care of you.
- No broken rudder cable yet, although it seems like this varies wildly between people.
- $$$, obviously
- If it gets dirty the drop down skeg does not work very good.
- Drop down skeg can and will bend, inhibiting its ability to drop down. However, it does bend back to shape very easily.
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Posted by papanfisher on 27 July 2016 - 03:03 PM
I wanted to start a post for my new Ultimate 12. I love this boat. I got it so that I could fish the Juniata River as I did as a kid. I could not get down to it with my two prosthetic legs. The only way that I could get down to the river was to go down to the Old Arch Bridge and put in Jacks creek then float down to the river. Then I could get to the Island where we had caught tons of small mouth and muskies. I will get down there and take lots of pictures. I will post them as I know that the Ultimate will do a great job. The boat is very stable. It has been 40 years since I have been there. I hope that it is as great as it used to be. I will have to float as much as 15 miles to the new Game & Fish launch in the Narrows. That is the only way that I will be able to do the trip as it will be the only way that I can get out of the river safely. This trip is only in my mind right now. I have the boat now. I only have to use it. I have been in the house to long. I am getting the skirts for the Ultimate. I have found them. I will have to find a way to attach them as the new Ultimate that I got not longer has the tracks on it, There is a couple sets of rapids that I will have to go down to get to the launch site to get out of the river. I envt the guys that can just throw thier boats on thier shoulders and go. I can not do that anymore, Stay tuned for the actual trip.
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Posted by stripinator on 11 May 2016 - 08:12 PM
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Posted by Camboya7 on 10 April 2016 - 08:03 AM
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Posted by skidsteer on 19 February 2016 - 04:00 PM
A grinder with a wire brush is your friend ...
Clean everything, replace the bearings, and drive it like you stole it ...
(bearings are pretty cheap)
Or just send it to me and call it good
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Posted by boykinsbuddy on 15 September 2015 - 09:21 AM
This may be a better option for larger rudder surface. http://nativeownersg...-rudder-design/
It is not supposed to place as much leverage on the rudder shaft which in turn would also apply to the handle parts.
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Posted by rocketball on 06 June 2015 - 07:17 AM
I had high hopes when I ordered this boat back in December and so far its been more than I expected. Thank you Native for designing such a great boat. Got into some awesome smallmouth fishing last weekend and put this video together! enjoy
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Posted by J.A. Veil on 27 May 2015 - 07:02 AM
Here are some quick answers to your questions. I own both the SP 10 and the SP 13 so I can compare them easily.
- Does the 13 track better than the 10?
Yes. The longer water line and slightly narrower beam lets the SP 13 track more easily. But the difference is not great.
- Is the 13 considerably more stable than the 10? i.e. is it better for standing and fishing?
As an old, tall, and heavy guy, I never attempt to stand in any of my kayaks. The size and layout of the cockpit area is very similar in both boats. I would not expect much of a difference.
- What are the advantages of the 13 over the 10?
1) The SP 13 is faster by roughly 0.5 mph at cruising speed (measured by GPS speed over ground -- I have FF/GPS units on both SP models). At faster speeds, the SP 13 is likely to show an even greater advantage in speed. Both pedal easily and smoothly. I did not realize I was moving more slowly in the SP 10 until I checked the speed on the GPS.
2) If you are going to be fishing or boating in rough water (my definition is waves >1.5 ft) the SP10 is not as stable. When you are moving with large following seas or large seas from the rear quarter, the stern of the SP 10 can be pushed around. If you are not operating under rough water conditions, this is not an issue at all.
3) The SP 13 is slightly better in the water because of the onboard storage space and greater speed and stability. But this is counteracted by the great advantage of the SP 10 on land. The hull weight difference (57 lbs vs. 85 lbs) is very noticeable, especially when you are tired at the end of a long trip.
4) The standard Native rudder provides decent control on the SP 10. It is acceptable but less effective on the SP 13 -- many owners upgrade to an after-market rudder on the SP 13.
Without doing a much more detailed analysis, both versions are excellent. You need to choose the one that best fits your needs for the way you fish, how you will store the kayak at home, and how you will transport it to the launch point.
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Posted by 02seedoc on 19 January 2015 - 11:56 AM
If they are fishing, usually a pack of liars
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