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#30824 White Bass from my Slayer Propel 13

Posted by redfishross on 28 May 2015 - 07:32 AM

Great day on the river !
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#27408 Attention Slayer Propel Owners who fish the salt water!

Posted by JohnKiffmeyer on 05 May 2014 - 04:35 PM

Hi Riddler... John Kiffmeyer here from Native Watercraft. I'm the Propel Product Manager and noticed the problem you were having with our drive. I'm very disappointed to hear you have been having rust issues and would like to help you in any way I can to resolve them. The Propel unit was designed to work in a salt water environment and this is definitely not common. I hear you that other have had this problem and we are constantly working to improve our system. However, the simple fact is that your Propel bearing is having rust issues and it's not right. I will work to make it right for you and get you any information or parts that you need. If you do choose to go find your own bearing, that is a trade number 6203, dimensions 17 x 40 x 12mm. A couple of things I should mention: The bearing is not "rusted" into the cap. It is bonded into place. This is necessary to keep it from moving under the load of the helical gears and the thrust/radial load caused by them. If you do remove the bearing, use Loctite 638 to bond the new bearing into place inside the cap, and make sure to use the recommend primer as there will generally be some residual oil on the new bearing and it needs to be removed. Also, the caps have Blue Loctite on the threads to keep the caps from vibrating loose during shipping, trailer carrying, and just general use. I realize that makes it difficult to remove, but it's also what keeps it solid. There is an o-ring that compresses when the cap is tight, and that adds drag to the system as you loosen it as well. It sounds as though the amount of force you had to use to remove the cap was more than normal, and I will look into that as well. One quick note on the grease, if you are not going to use the Native Watercraft recommended Teflon grease, than I recommend that you do a compatibility testing with it to make sure it doesn't cause the gear grease to separate. Not all greases are compatible and if they cause each other to separate it can cause more damage than greasing generally solves. Which is why we recommend only using the Finish Line Teflon Lubricant. I hear you and recognize the issues you are having, I realize it is frustrating and I am here to help you in any way possible. Please let me know how I can be of assistance. Best regards, John
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#35656 Paddle Storage

Posted by Bradleto on 10 January 2017 - 11:45 AM

Yes, this is an attached photo of a Slayer Propel 10 where its owner unscrewed the handle on the starboard side, then mounted cam lock paddle holders and then re-mounted the handle. As I recall, it might take a slightly longer screw.

 

The advantages in my opinion are: 1) the paddle isn't broken down into two pieces so it is more quickly available; 2) it is close at hand; 3) it keeps free track you might need for other things; and 4) it is one of the more elegant and attractive set-ups.

 

I like this slightly more than a similar set-up where bungee cord secures the paddle.

 

Brad

 

[/URL]"> http://Paddle%20mount%20alternative_zpsw41un50e


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#35158 Rudder cable snapped.

Posted by chevybob20 on 25 September 2016 - 08:36 PM

OK, I've just read more about wire cables than I care to admit. To make a long story short, Native is using a cable of a 1x19 design. This cable is not rated to be used with a pulley which is exactly the application it is employed. This is because the stiffness of the design is not rated to handle the fatigue causing premature failure. Furthermore, if slack is introduced in the cable, extra fatigue is introduced at the set screw causing even worse life of the cable. I also believe that the stresses added by banging the rudder during loading/unloading and launching happen more than most yakkers are aware of or care to admit.

 

This might be an oversight by Native. If I read correctly, they changed from a 2 piece cable designed rudder control (a pure push-pull design) to a one piece drive cable pulley design. In a "push - pull" application, the cable (1x19 construction) was correct. When they instituted a pulley in the design, they should have switched to a 7x7 design.

 

I recommend using a 7x7, 1.5mm, 302/304 Stainless Steel  cable if you use the yak in a salt environment. Replace the cable every 2 to 3 years regardless as standard maintenance.

 

If you only use your yak in fresh water, I recommend a galvanized steel cable, 7x7, 1.5mm. Galvanized steel cables are stronger than the stainless cables and exhibit longer life under fatigue wear like when used with a pulley. Replace the cables every 2 - 3 years as regular maintenance.

 

 

Here are my references:

 

http://thecableconne...rand-cable.html

 

http://www.savacable.com/sava_cat.pdf

 

Page 64 of the below linked book talks about not using 1x19 cable over a pulley

https://books.google... pulley&f=false  


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#33481 Transporting 13' Slayer

Posted by Aeroshots on 14 April 2016 - 02:38 PM

I tend to go a little overboard, but this system works for me.

Attached Files


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#29686 Sheepshead in the Mariner

Posted by Mudfish on 22 December 2014 - 08:58 PM

Here's a decent Sheepshead I recently caught from my Mariner in shallow water over a shell bottom.

Attached Files


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#36377 Amigos, I need your help!!!

Posted by Engleman on 08 May 2017 - 03:29 PM

After a long journey, lots of research and $$ on tools, and much wringing of hands and gnashing of teeth, I got the drive disassembled. Inspected everything. Surprisingly, nothing was loose. The crank bearings, however, were rusted and noisy and have since been replaced. Everything else looked pretty good. The propeller drive cartridge was immaculate. No grease, no corrosion, no nada. So I cleaned and re-applied grease to everything and buttoned it all up.

Here's where it gets interesting. I turned over my yak to ffill in some gouges from a fishing trip to the coast and noticed that my transducer, which had been mounted down through the forward port scupper, had come partially loose and had somehow turned itself sidewise into the water slipstream. The admin of this site had originally suggested cavitation or perhaps ventilation as a reason for the slipping, so I GTS'd (Googled That S--t) causes of cavitation and ventilation. Lo, and behold, one possible cause listed was an obstruction (such as a transducer) just forward of the propeller.

So...I relocated my transducer by attaching it to the bottom of the hull inside the forward hatch on a flat spot; knelt down and said a little prayer to Poseidon, sacrificed a small crayfish and a tadpole, and went out to see if all my efforts had stopped the slipping. Whatever it was worked. I suspect it was never the Propel drive, but rather the skewed transducer. Who'd 've thunk it? It gave me a chance to collect all the tools and bearings I will ever need now, and I know the Propel drive inside and out.

Thanks to all of you for your info and suggestions. Just in time for the kingfish and cobia.
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#36373 is the pedal drive secure on slayer propel 10?

Posted by Mudfish on 07 May 2017 - 12:58 PM

I recently witnessed a friend of mine flip his Hobie PA in a creek and unfortunately lost his Mirage Drive, along with some other gear. Those drives are VERY expensive... all the brands are. So, I decided to install a homemade lanyard for my Slayer Propel drive unit. I already have one on my Mariner Propel. I bought all Stainless Steel items from Home Depot; eye bolt, nuts, washers. I already had the SS carabiner clip and paracord. Easy to install. Simple, but effective. I bought the SS Eye bolt a little long, thinking I would need to use a backing plate, but after drilling the 1/4" hole through the deck I realized just how thick the Slayer's deck is. I used large SS fender washers, so I really don't think it needs a backing plate.
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#36215 where can i find best price for a propel 10?

Posted by J.A. Veil on 17 April 2017 - 10:33 AM

 Here are a couple of thoughts.

 

1) Native controls retail pricing through their dealers.  All dealers are supposed to offer the same base pricing on the current model year's kayaks.  A dealer may be able to sweeten a deal for a buyer by offering accessories at a discount or including some other type of service.  Shipping costs, if you do not purchase at the dealer's store, is another area where costs can be juggled somewhat.  

 

For kayaks that are older than the current model year but are still new, dealers often have more flexibility in costs. 

 

2)  This website is run by Get Outdoors, a Native retailer (I have no affiliation with Get Outdoors, but recognize their efforts in creating and maintaining this wonderful information resource).  It is probably not a great idea to ask questions about which dealers will give you a lower price on this site.  If that is your goal, you can do plenty of Internet searching on your own.  


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#35855 Paddle kayaks!

Posted by boykinsbuddy on 18 February 2017 - 02:06 PM

Many of us certainly have noticed and feel the same way. Being on their pro staff we make comments every chance we get, and the suggestions are in there for a dedicated offshore paddle kayak that will handle going out beyond the breakers and also a river dedicated boat that will compete with the new offerings from other brands. It can be discouraging to see the likes of the competitors constantly coming out with new paddle kayaks and upgrades to older models while Native keeps churning out Propel variations if you aren't into the pedal-craft thing. Working at a shop like Get:Outdoors that carries all of the competitors, I definitely haven't let any interesting models go unnoticed or unpaddled. Competition is a good thing and  Native seems to be happy continuing their line of new Propel models since that is where their bread and butter is coming from right now...but with that said...there are still plenty of paddlers that don't want a pedal drive or can't afford plopping down well over $2K for a pedal drive, that do have the money to put into a new paddle kayak. Where those paddlers end up is up in the air right now since there isn't a competitive craft coming out of Native for the time being or any time soon.


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#35823 Brand New SP13 Owner

Posted by maturin on 13 February 2017 - 03:10 PM

Hi all...

 

Just wanted to introduce myself.   Just picked up my Slayer and am looking forward to getting out on the water, and wanted to see if there is any hindsight anyone would want to share before spend any more money...

 

Any hard lessons to learn right off the bat?  Any essentials gear wise? 

 

Im located in the PNW, and the winter duldrums are just starting to ease a bit.   Looking forward to a great season.


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#35307 Installed my Seadek tonight

Posted by neckbone on 17 October 2016 - 06:51 PM

Got my winter project done early. Was bored, so I decided to tackle the Seadek. Bought a kit from them a few months ago when they were having their clearance sale. Think I paid about $50 for the entire kit.

I initially tried to tape half of the first pad down then stick the other half and move to the rest like the YouTube videos say. I found it much easier to free hand it. Think the entire thing took me 10 minutes, at the most. I'm really happy with how it turned out. Sorry, I completely forgot to take before pictures.

Attached Files


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#35079 Propel drive clamp crack

Posted by boykinsbuddy on 14 September 2016 - 10:30 AM

I just picked up a new SP13 last week and noticed that Native no longer includes the hex head torque wrench. In the included instructions, they state to use the included standard 4mm hex wrench to tighten the screws to 35 in/lbs of torque. Unfortunately my hands are not calibrated to the proper in/lbs required for the proper instructions. I will have to go and dig up a torque wrench to set the proper in/lbs.

 

For those that have a broken clamp out of warranty...here is the fix: https://www.amazon.c...ds=climax clamp

Slide one of these on each side of the bar and tighten away. I would also wonder if putting a small washer in the seam of the clamp around each screw would prevent the clamp from doing any flexing or closing too much during pedaling? And I wonder if putting a set of these clamps on before the issue happens if that would prevent the cracking down the road?? The needed fix is to redesign the clamp where it is a 2 part clamp like almost all of your mountain bike handlebar stems. 2 bolts on top and 2 bolts on the bottom of the clamp. I think what is breaking the clamp is the actual side to side torque created by the pedaling motion. If any part is going to break from extended flexing over time, the bar itself should be designed to be the sacrificial part that breaks OR the bolts...not the clamp. The clamp should be  the bombproof part since it is not replaceable.


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#34944 BerleyPro Rudder

Posted by Hannzo24 on 01 September 2016 - 10:36 AM

I've been using the BerleyPro rudder since April.  Here are my pros and cons:

 

PROS:

  • Greatly increased turning Radius.
  • Improved tracking, but not earth shattering improvement.
  • Very durable.
  • Excellent customer service from the owner of BerleyPro.  Can't say enough about how awesome the guy is.  He is extremely proud of his work, if there are any problems at all he will take care of you.
  • No broken rudder cable yet, although it seems like this varies wildly between people.

CONS:

  • $$$, obviously
  • If it gets dirty the drop down skeg does not work very good.
  • Drop down skeg can and will bend, inhibiting its ability to drop down.  However, it does bend back to shape very easily.

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#33414 Transducer on propel drive

Posted by Camboya7 on 10 April 2016 - 08:03 AM

This is how i did mine

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#33074 Is this worth trying to repair

Posted by skidsteer on 19 February 2016 - 04:00 PM

A grinder with a wire brush is your friend ...

 

Clean everything, replace the bearings, and drive it like you stole it ... 

 

(bearings are pretty cheap)

 

Or just send it to me and call it good   :D


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#30950 Slayer accessories and fish storage

Posted by ssuajk on 09 June 2015 - 12:41 AM

1) SuperNova Fish lights are good if you are trying to light up an area so your buddy can cast towards you and catch fish under your yak. As far as for you, the lights aren't of much use unless you just want to dump your rods and use a hand line near your yak. I would recommend these if you are invited to be in a river parade.

2) SeaDek is great, I have the camo kit but now there are other manufactures out there that make kits for half the price.

3) Native bow bag is just to short for most of the fish I catch, there are longer ones like Surf to Summit but I use Boone Monster fish bag, it folds easy and I can break it out once I have a keeper, until then I only use half the bag for drinks. I use those freezer gel ice packs for my bag they stay cold, they float and don't make a mess.

P.S. That little Native cooler is fine if you are catching Bream or Smelt but the keepers I go after won't fit in that cooler and I have to keep the fish whole in case Fish and Game want to do their job.

 
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#30923 Loving the Slayer Propel for Bass Fishing

Posted by rocketball on 06 June 2015 - 07:17 AM

I had high hopes when I ordered this boat back in December and so far its been more than I expected. Thank you Native for designing such a great boat. Got into some awesome smallmouth fishing last weekend and put this video together! enjoy

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=THJzA5D-Uoc


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#29874 A Group of Yakkers is Called ........... ????

Posted by boykinsbuddy on 20 January 2015 - 11:10 PM

When you are out there on your own it is called....ready for this? Theropy. When you are with a gang of yaks...it is called....'group theropy'!


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#29859 A Group of Yakkers is Called ........... ????

Posted by 02seedoc on 19 January 2015 - 11:56 AM

If they are fishing, usually a pack of liars :)


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