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Most Liked Content
Posted by YakkinSETX on 08 March 2010 - 12:27 PM
Posted by sixstring on 08 March 2010 - 08:17 AM
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Posted by redfishross on 28 May 2015 - 07:32 AM
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Posted by JohnKiffmeyer on 05 May 2014 - 04:35 PM
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Posted by Bradleto on 10 January 2017 - 11:45 AM
Yes, this is an attached photo of a Slayer Propel 10 where its owner unscrewed the handle on the starboard side, then mounted cam lock paddle holders and then re-mounted the handle. As I recall, it might take a slightly longer screw.
The advantages in my opinion are: 1) the paddle isn't broken down into two pieces so it is more quickly available; 2) it is close at hand; 3) it keeps free track you might need for other things; and 4) it is one of the more elegant and attractive set-ups.
I like this slightly more than a similar set-up where bungee cord secures the paddle.
- l8r g8r, Skully, Moxymo and 1 other like this
Posted by chevybob20 on 25 September 2016 - 08:36 PM
OK, I've just read more about wire cables than I care to admit. To make a long story short, Native is using a cable of a 1x19 design. This cable is not rated to be used with a pulley which is exactly the application it is employed. This is because the stiffness of the design is not rated to handle the fatigue causing premature failure. Furthermore, if slack is introduced in the cable, extra fatigue is introduced at the set screw causing even worse life of the cable. I also believe that the stresses added by banging the rudder during loading/unloading and launching happen more than most yakkers are aware of or care to admit.
This might be an oversight by Native. If I read correctly, they changed from a 2 piece cable designed rudder control (a pure push-pull design) to a one piece drive cable pulley design. In a "push - pull" application, the cable (1x19 construction) was correct. When they instituted a pulley in the design, they should have switched to a 7x7 design.
I recommend using a 7x7, 1.5mm, 302/304 Stainless Steel cable if you use the yak in a salt environment. Replace the cable every 2 to 3 years regardless as standard maintenance.
If you only use your yak in fresh water, I recommend a galvanized steel cable, 7x7, 1.5mm. Galvanized steel cables are stronger than the stainless cables and exhibit longer life under fatigue wear like when used with a pulley. Replace the cables every 2 - 3 years as regular maintenance.
Here are my references:
Page 64 of the below linked book talks about not using 1x19 cable over a pulley
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Posted by boykinsbuddy on 14 September 2016 - 10:30 AM
I just picked up a new SP13 last week and noticed that Native no longer includes the hex head torque wrench. In the included instructions, they state to use the included standard 4mm hex wrench to tighten the screws to 35 in/lbs of torque. Unfortunately my hands are not calibrated to the proper in/lbs required for the proper instructions. I will have to go and dig up a torque wrench to set the proper in/lbs.
For those that have a broken clamp out of warranty...here is the fix: https://www.amazon.c...ds=climax clamp
Slide one of these on each side of the bar and tighten away. I would also wonder if putting a small washer in the seam of the clamp around each screw would prevent the clamp from doing any flexing or closing too much during pedaling? And I wonder if putting a set of these clamps on before the issue happens if that would prevent the cracking down the road?? The needed fix is to redesign the clamp where it is a 2 part clamp like almost all of your mountain bike handlebar stems. 2 bolts on top and 2 bolts on the bottom of the clamp. I think what is breaking the clamp is the actual side to side torque created by the pedaling motion. If any part is going to break from extended flexing over time, the bar itself should be designed to be the sacrificial part that breaks OR the bolts...not the clamp. The clamp should be the bombproof part since it is not replaceable.
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Posted by Scooty Puff Jr on 12 June 2017 - 08:56 PM
has anyone tricked out their slayer propel to be able to take their dog with them? Thanks
My wife and I have taken both of our dogs, we just put a towel down and put their dog life vests on em and away we go. It takes a little getting used to.
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Posted by Scooty Puff Jr on 15 May 2017 - 07:53 AM
Hey guys, just wanted to jump in and offer up my review of the 2017 Manta Ray Propel 12. I struggled to find much in the way of reviews of the boat prior to my purchase, it seems all the information coming out is for the Titan this year (rightfully so I guess). I made a couple video's of my 2017 Lizard Lick so hopefully it can help someone else make the right decision. Let me know if you have any questions or if you think of something I could add. I haven't started rigging her yet so I am up for suggestions. Sorry the video is in 2 parts, I couldn't get GoPro Studio to play nice with the full video so I ended up editing it 3 or 4 times before I decided to split it up.
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Posted by Mudfish on 07 May 2017 - 12:58 PM
- Native Slayer Propel Lanyard %2812-10-16%29 %281%29.jpg 63.1KB 0 downloads
- Native Slayer Propel Lanyard %2812-10-16%29 %282%29.jpg 67.79KB 0 downloads
- Native Slayer Propel Lanyard %2812-10-16%29 %283%29.jpg 43.16KB 0 downloads
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Posted by koyote on 23 April 2017 - 03:13 PM
Manno, your videos make your point. BKB, your explanation is very clear. I stand corrected.
This is a great forum and very helpful to those with problems. Apologies to all.
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Posted by maturin on 13 February 2017 - 03:10 PM
Just wanted to introduce myself. Just picked up my Slayer and am looking forward to getting out on the water, and wanted to see if there is any hindsight anyone would want to share before spend any more money...
Any hard lessons to learn right off the bat? Any essentials gear wise?
Im located in the PNW, and the winter duldrums are just starting to ease a bit. Looking forward to a great season.
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Posted by Pedalpower on 12 May 2016 - 02:49 PM
Hello all, I am a new member to this forum, and I wanted to start off my membership with a how-to post. I have had my Slayer 13 propel for about a month now, and I have been searching for a way to mount a transducer and fish finder without making any holes in the boat, and a way to quickly and easily take it on and off. I finally made my own mount out of some very simple items that you can get at any hardware store. I have used this out on the water several times now, and the fish finder has read clear and perfect every time. I decided on a simple Humminbird 197c color fish finder. It has a transducer similar to a Lowrance unit, buy you could modify your PVC to fit most transducers. I would say that the chirp or down scan type transducers may be a bit more difficult. I was going for simplicity. I wanted water depth, temp, a clear image, and something that was inexpensive in case it got damaged. For an extra $7 I got a two year replacement warranty. As you can see in the pictures I used a piece of 1 inch PVC pipe, cut down to length. This will depend on which scupper hole you choose to mount in. I used the front scupper in the forward compartment. That way I can keep the battery box in there with it, and I don't have to worry about stepping on it.
-1 inch pvc pipe. Cut out to fit transducer and bolt to hold it in place.
-Run the wire through the middle.
-attach a 3/4 inch threaded adapter
-get a 2 inch to 3/4 inch female threaded reducer
-glue a 2 inch cap on top and drill a hole in it big enough for the wire to fit
-get a rubber stopper and put a slice in it for the wire to run though
this will serve as a plug for your hole in the 2 inch cap
-That is it, you can screw on and off whenever you want
Battery box and fish finder mount
-small pelican box or whatever you have
-I use a piece of plastic cutting board for my mount
-2 mighty bolt mounts that I had left over from my wilderness kayak
these things are great because you can take them on and off whenever you want
Super easy, out of the way. I don't pack a whole bunch of fishing stuff in my front hatch, but I can still fit my rain coat and pants in there and my life jacket (no I do not wear it)
Hope this helps someone out! Tight lines everyone
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Posted by skidsteer on 19 February 2016 - 04:00 PM
A grinder with a wire brush is your friend ...
Clean everything, replace the bearings, and drive it like you stole it ...
(bearings are pretty cheap)
Or just send it to me and call it good
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Posted by rocketball on 06 June 2015 - 07:17 AM
I had high hopes when I ordered this boat back in December and so far its been more than I expected. Thank you Native for designing such a great boat. Got into some awesome smallmouth fishing last weekend and put this video together! enjoy
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Posted by J.A. Veil on 27 May 2015 - 07:02 AM
Here are some quick answers to your questions. I own both the SP 10 and the SP 13 so I can compare them easily.
- Does the 13 track better than the 10?
Yes. The longer water line and slightly narrower beam lets the SP 13 track more easily. But the difference is not great.
- Is the 13 considerably more stable than the 10? i.e. is it better for standing and fishing?
As an old, tall, and heavy guy, I never attempt to stand in any of my kayaks. The size and layout of the cockpit area is very similar in both boats. I would not expect much of a difference.
- What are the advantages of the 13 over the 10?
1) The SP 13 is faster by roughly 0.5 mph at cruising speed (measured by GPS speed over ground -- I have FF/GPS units on both SP models). At faster speeds, the SP 13 is likely to show an even greater advantage in speed. Both pedal easily and smoothly. I did not realize I was moving more slowly in the SP 10 until I checked the speed on the GPS.
2) If you are going to be fishing or boating in rough water (my definition is waves >1.5 ft) the SP10 is not as stable. When you are moving with large following seas or large seas from the rear quarter, the stern of the SP 10 can be pushed around. If you are not operating under rough water conditions, this is not an issue at all.
3) The SP 13 is slightly better in the water because of the onboard storage space and greater speed and stability. But this is counteracted by the great advantage of the SP 10 on land. The hull weight difference (57 lbs vs. 85 lbs) is very noticeable, especially when you are tired at the end of a long trip.
4) The standard Native rudder provides decent control on the SP 10. It is acceptable but less effective on the SP 13 -- many owners upgrade to an after-market rudder on the SP 13.
Without doing a much more detailed analysis, both versions are excellent. You need to choose the one that best fits your needs for the way you fish, how you will store the kayak at home, and how you will transport it to the launch point.
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Posted by 02seedoc on 19 January 2015 - 11:56 AM
If they are fishing, usually a pack of liars
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Posted by opoteat on 14 January 2015 - 09:23 AM
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