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Most Liked Content
Posted by YakkinSETX on 08 March 2010 - 12:27 PM
Posted by sixstring on 08 March 2010 - 08:17 AM
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Posted by redfishross on 28 May 2015 - 07:32 AM
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Posted by JohnKiffmeyer on 05 May 2014 - 04:35 PM
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Posted by Bradleto on 10 January 2017 - 11:45 AM
Yes, this is an attached photo of a Slayer Propel 10 where its owner unscrewed the handle on the starboard side, then mounted cam lock paddle holders and then re-mounted the handle. As I recall, it might take a slightly longer screw.
The advantages in my opinion are: 1) the paddle isn't broken down into two pieces so it is more quickly available; 2) it is close at hand; 3) it keeps free track you might need for other things; and 4) it is one of the more elegant and attractive set-ups.
I like this slightly more than a similar set-up where bungee cord secures the paddle.
- l8r g8r, Skully, Moxymo and 1 other like this
Posted by chevybob20 on 25 September 2016 - 08:36 PM
OK, I've just read more about wire cables than I care to admit. To make a long story short, Native is using a cable of a 1x19 design. This cable is not rated to be used with a pulley which is exactly the application it is employed. This is because the stiffness of the design is not rated to handle the fatigue causing premature failure. Furthermore, if slack is introduced in the cable, extra fatigue is introduced at the set screw causing even worse life of the cable. I also believe that the stresses added by banging the rudder during loading/unloading and launching happen more than most yakkers are aware of or care to admit.
This might be an oversight by Native. If I read correctly, they changed from a 2 piece cable designed rudder control (a pure push-pull design) to a one piece drive cable pulley design. In a "push - pull" application, the cable (1x19 construction) was correct. When they instituted a pulley in the design, they should have switched to a 7x7 design.
I recommend using a 7x7, 1.5mm, 302/304 Stainless Steel cable if you use the yak in a salt environment. Replace the cable every 2 to 3 years regardless as standard maintenance.
If you only use your yak in fresh water, I recommend a galvanized steel cable, 7x7, 1.5mm. Galvanized steel cables are stronger than the stainless cables and exhibit longer life under fatigue wear like when used with a pulley. Replace the cables every 2 - 3 years as regular maintenance.
Here are my references:
Page 64 of the below linked book talks about not using 1x19 cable over a pulley
- boykinsbuddy, Squidslayer, Skully and 1 other like this
Posted by boykinsbuddy on 14 September 2016 - 10:30 AM
I just picked up a new SP13 last week and noticed that Native no longer includes the hex head torque wrench. In the included instructions, they state to use the included standard 4mm hex wrench to tighten the screws to 35 in/lbs of torque. Unfortunately my hands are not calibrated to the proper in/lbs required for the proper instructions. I will have to go and dig up a torque wrench to set the proper in/lbs.
For those that have a broken clamp out of warranty...here is the fix: https://www.amazon.c...ds=climax clamp
Slide one of these on each side of the bar and tighten away. I would also wonder if putting a small washer in the seam of the clamp around each screw would prevent the clamp from doing any flexing or closing too much during pedaling? And I wonder if putting a set of these clamps on before the issue happens if that would prevent the cracking down the road?? The needed fix is to redesign the clamp where it is a 2 part clamp like almost all of your mountain bike handlebar stems. 2 bolts on top and 2 bolts on the bottom of the clamp. I think what is breaking the clamp is the actual side to side torque created by the pedaling motion. If any part is going to break from extended flexing over time, the bar itself should be designed to be the sacrificial part that breaks OR the bolts...not the clamp. The clamp should be the bombproof part since it is not replaceable.
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Posted by donga on 27 January 2018 - 08:10 AM
If I had them on mine I would attempt to make a "drawer" of some type that used the tracks as slides.
It would be handy to have some rigs / jigs / tools under the seat in a drawer that could slide out for access.
- NOG Admin, donga and Squidslayer like this
Posted by Scooty Puff Jr on 15 May 2017 - 07:53 AM
Hey guys, just wanted to jump in and offer up my review of the 2017 Manta Ray Propel 12. I struggled to find much in the way of reviews of the boat prior to my purchase, it seems all the information coming out is for the Titan this year (rightfully so I guess). I made a couple video's of my 2017 Lizard Lick so hopefully it can help someone else make the right decision. Let me know if you have any questions or if you think of something I could add. I haven't started rigging her yet so I am up for suggestions. Sorry the video is in 2 parts, I couldn't get GoPro Studio to play nice with the full video so I ended up editing it 3 or 4 times before I decided to split it up.
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Posted by Engleman on 08 May 2017 - 03:29 PM
Here's where it gets interesting. I turned over my yak to ffill in some gouges from a fishing trip to the coast and noticed that my transducer, which had been mounted down through the forward port scupper, had come partially loose and had somehow turned itself sidewise into the water slipstream. The admin of this site had originally suggested cavitation or perhaps ventilation as a reason for the slipping, so I GTS'd (Googled That S--t) causes of cavitation and ventilation. Lo, and behold, one possible cause listed was an obstruction (such as a transducer) just forward of the propeller.
So...I relocated my transducer by attaching it to the bottom of the hull inside the forward hatch on a flat spot; knelt down and said a little prayer to Poseidon, sacrificed a small crayfish and a tadpole, and went out to see if all my efforts had stopped the slipping. Whatever it was worked. I suspect it was never the Propel drive, but rather the skewed transducer. Who'd 've thunk it? It gave me a chance to collect all the tools and bearings I will ever need now, and I know the Propel drive inside and out.
Thanks to all of you for your info and suggestions. Just in time for the kingfish and cobia.
- NOG Admin, Spider Crack and Squidslayer like this
Posted by J.A. Veil on 17 April 2017 - 10:33 AM
Here are a couple of thoughts.
1) Native controls retail pricing through their dealers. All dealers are supposed to offer the same base pricing on the current model year's kayaks. A dealer may be able to sweeten a deal for a buyer by offering accessories at a discount or including some other type of service. Shipping costs, if you do not purchase at the dealer's store, is another area where costs can be juggled somewhat.
For kayaks that are older than the current model year but are still new, dealers often have more flexibility in costs.
2) This website is run by Get Outdoors, a Native retailer (I have no affiliation with Get Outdoors, but recognize their efforts in creating and maintaining this wonderful information resource). It is probably not a great idea to ask questions about which dealers will give you a lower price on this site. If that is your goal, you can do plenty of Internet searching on your own.
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Posted by neckbone on 17 October 2016 - 06:51 PM
I initially tried to tape half of the first pad down then stick the other half and move to the rest like the YouTube videos say. I found it much easier to free hand it. Think the entire thing took me 10 minutes, at the most. I'm really happy with how it turned out. Sorry, I completely forgot to take before pictures.
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Posted by stripinator on 11 May 2016 - 08:12 PM
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Posted by boykinsbuddy on 15 September 2015 - 09:21 AM
This may be a better option for larger rudder surface. http://nativeownersg...-rudder-design/
It is not supposed to place as much leverage on the rudder shaft which in turn would also apply to the handle parts.
- gadgetguy1288, Eyejuggler and Rgregory like this
Posted by ssuajk on 09 June 2015 - 12:41 AM
1) SuperNova Fish lights are good if you are trying to light up an area so your buddy can cast towards you and catch fish under your yak. As far as for you, the lights aren't of much use unless you just want to dump your rods and use a hand line near your yak. I would recommend these if you are invited to be in a river parade.
2) SeaDek is great, I have the camo kit but now there are other manufactures out there that make kits for half the price.
3) Native bow bag is just to short for most of the fish I catch, there are longer ones like Surf to Summit but I use Boone Monster fish bag, it folds easy and I can break it out once I have a keeper, until then I only use half the bag for drinks. I use those freezer gel ice packs for my bag they stay cold, they float and don't make a mess.
P.S. That little Native cooler is fine if you are catching Bream or Smelt but the keepers I go after won't fit in that cooler and I have to keep the fish whole in case Fish and Game want to do their job.
- Anton, Squidslayer and mike333h like this
Posted by J.A. Veil on 27 May 2015 - 07:02 AM
Here are some quick answers to your questions. I own both the SP 10 and the SP 13 so I can compare them easily.
- Does the 13 track better than the 10?
Yes. The longer water line and slightly narrower beam lets the SP 13 track more easily. But the difference is not great.
- Is the 13 considerably more stable than the 10? i.e. is it better for standing and fishing?
As an old, tall, and heavy guy, I never attempt to stand in any of my kayaks. The size and layout of the cockpit area is very similar in both boats. I would not expect much of a difference.
- What are the advantages of the 13 over the 10?
1) The SP 13 is faster by roughly 0.5 mph at cruising speed (measured by GPS speed over ground -- I have FF/GPS units on both SP models). At faster speeds, the SP 13 is likely to show an even greater advantage in speed. Both pedal easily and smoothly. I did not realize I was moving more slowly in the SP 10 until I checked the speed on the GPS.
2) If you are going to be fishing or boating in rough water (my definition is waves >1.5 ft) the SP10 is not as stable. When you are moving with large following seas or large seas from the rear quarter, the stern of the SP 10 can be pushed around. If you are not operating under rough water conditions, this is not an issue at all.
3) The SP 13 is slightly better in the water because of the onboard storage space and greater speed and stability. But this is counteracted by the great advantage of the SP 10 on land. The hull weight difference (57 lbs vs. 85 lbs) is very noticeable, especially when you are tired at the end of a long trip.
4) The standard Native rudder provides decent control on the SP 10. It is acceptable but less effective on the SP 13 -- many owners upgrade to an after-market rudder on the SP 13.
Without doing a much more detailed analysis, both versions are excellent. You need to choose the one that best fits your needs for the way you fish, how you will store the kayak at home, and how you will transport it to the launch point.
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Posted by boykinsbuddy on 20 January 2015 - 11:10 PM
When you are out there on your own it is called....ready for this? Theropy. When you are with a gang of yaks...it is called....'group theropy'!
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Posted by J.A. Veil on 24 November 2014 - 03:41 PM
I have hesitated stepping into this discussion, but I do want to share some of my own experience with Native as a company and with my two Propel drives. I have had a Slayer Propel 13 for the past year with no rust or corrosion on the Propel. My new Slayer Propel 10, which I have had for a month, has no rust or corrosion either. Most of my trips are made in the estuarine salinity of the Chesapeake Bay. I rinse off the Propel with a garden hose after each trip.
I bought my first Native kayak -- a Manta Ray 14 -- in 2008. I loved that kayak but in 2012 had some issues with it. I took the kayak to my local dealer where I had purchased it. They saw something wrong and told me they would notify Native about the issue. Within a week, I received word that Native would take care of my problem without hesitation or question. Native's resolution was prompt and exceeded my expectations -- and this was for a 4-year old kayak. That was one of the reasons I signed up to join Native's Pro Staff team. I think their products have high quality and match up well with the competition. Their customer support when I needed it was outstanding.
Going back to the Propel concerns, I think that John Kiffmeyer expressed things well. Most Propels do not show corrosion or rusting under normal use conditions and when basic rinsing and lubing are performed. As in many complex manufactured products, a small percentage of the Propel units did not perform as well as they were supposed to perform -- at least in regards to the rusting. John explained the correct procedure for seeking resolution -- contact your dealer and have them evaluate the issue. The dealer can contact Native and begin a process to resolve the issue. Although posting complaints on chat boards can be useful in identifying problems, posting there without also doing the dealer contact can turn into unproductive finger-pointing and may not take care of the owner's issues. I hope that those individuals who own Native products that have issues can get them worked out.
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