Jump to content

Hello Guest


If this is your first visit, we invite you to register (click here) for full user access. Membership is free but is required in order to post to our forums. Membership entitles you to a discount on Native Watercraft Accessories purchased through the forum host, Get:Outdoors. If you are an existing member and have not reset your password since November 2, 2014, please follow the instructions here.

Thank you.
Welcome Guest Messages 6.0.0 © 2017 VirteQ

Most Liked Content

#30824 White Bass from my Slayer Propel 13

Posted by redfishross on 28 May 2015 - 07:32 AM

Great day on the river !
  • NOG Admin, AlaDan, RetiredFF and 3 others like this

#27408 Attention Slayer Propel Owners who fish the salt water!

Posted by JohnKiffmeyer on 05 May 2014 - 04:35 PM

Hi Riddler... John Kiffmeyer here from Native Watercraft. I'm the Propel Product Manager and noticed the problem you were having with our drive. I'm very disappointed to hear you have been having rust issues and would like to help you in any way I can to resolve them. The Propel unit was designed to work in a salt water environment and this is definitely not common. I hear you that other have had this problem and we are constantly working to improve our system. However, the simple fact is that your Propel bearing is having rust issues and it's not right. I will work to make it right for you and get you any information or parts that you need. If you do choose to go find your own bearing, that is a trade number 6203, dimensions 17 x 40 x 12mm. A couple of things I should mention: The bearing is not "rusted" into the cap. It is bonded into place. This is necessary to keep it from moving under the load of the helical gears and the thrust/radial load caused by them. If you do remove the bearing, use Loctite 638 to bond the new bearing into place inside the cap, and make sure to use the recommend primer as there will generally be some residual oil on the new bearing and it needs to be removed. Also, the caps have Blue Loctite on the threads to keep the caps from vibrating loose during shipping, trailer carrying, and just general use. I realize that makes it difficult to remove, but it's also what keeps it solid. There is an o-ring that compresses when the cap is tight, and that adds drag to the system as you loosen it as well. It sounds as though the amount of force you had to use to remove the cap was more than normal, and I will look into that as well. One quick note on the grease, if you are not going to use the Native Watercraft recommended Teflon grease, than I recommend that you do a compatibility testing with it to make sure it doesn't cause the gear grease to separate. Not all greases are compatible and if they cause each other to separate it can cause more damage than greasing generally solves. Which is why we recommend only using the Finish Line Teflon Lubricant. I hear you and recognize the issues you are having, I realize it is frustrating and I am here to help you in any way possible. Please let me know how I can be of assistance. Best regards, John
  • bpjarvis3, forkmonkey, kennuph and 2 others like this

#35656 Paddle Storage

Posted by Bradleto on 10 January 2017 - 11:45 AM

Yes, this is an attached photo of a Slayer Propel 10 where its owner unscrewed the handle on the starboard side, then mounted cam lock paddle holders and then re-mounted the handle. As I recall, it might take a slightly longer screw.


The advantages in my opinion are: 1) the paddle isn't broken down into two pieces so it is more quickly available; 2) it is close at hand; 3) it keeps free track you might need for other things; and 4) it is one of the more elegant and attractive set-ups.


I like this slightly more than a similar set-up where bungee cord secures the paddle.




[/URL]"> http://Paddle%20mount%20alternative_zpsw41un50e

  • l8r g8r, Skully, Moxymo and 1 other like this

#35158 Rudder cable snapped.

Posted by chevybob20 on 25 September 2016 - 08:36 PM

OK, I've just read more about wire cables than I care to admit. To make a long story short, Native is using a cable of a 1x19 design. This cable is not rated to be used with a pulley which is exactly the application it is employed. This is because the stiffness of the design is not rated to handle the fatigue causing premature failure. Furthermore, if slack is introduced in the cable, extra fatigue is introduced at the set screw causing even worse life of the cable. I also believe that the stresses added by banging the rudder during loading/unloading and launching happen more than most yakkers are aware of or care to admit.


This might be an oversight by Native. If I read correctly, they changed from a 2 piece cable designed rudder control (a pure push-pull design) to a one piece drive cable pulley design. In a "push - pull" application, the cable (1x19 construction) was correct. When they instituted a pulley in the design, they should have switched to a 7x7 design.


I recommend using a 7x7, 1.5mm, 302/304 Stainless Steel  cable if you use the yak in a salt environment. Replace the cable every 2 to 3 years regardless as standard maintenance.


If you only use your yak in fresh water, I recommend a galvanized steel cable, 7x7, 1.5mm. Galvanized steel cables are stronger than the stainless cables and exhibit longer life under fatigue wear like when used with a pulley. Replace the cables every 2 - 3 years as regular maintenance.



Here are my references:






Page 64 of the below linked book talks about not using 1x19 cable over a pulley

https://books.google... pulley&f=false  

  • boykinsbuddy, Squidslayer, Skully and 1 other like this

#33481 Transporting 13' Slayer

Posted by Aeroshots on 14 April 2016 - 02:38 PM

I tend to go a little overboard, but this system works for me.

Attached Files

  • porcha, AKFishOn, neckbone and 1 other like this

#29686 Sheepshead in the Mariner

Posted by Mudfish on 22 December 2014 - 08:58 PM

Here's a decent Sheepshead I recently caught from my Mariner in shallow water over a shell bottom.

Attached Files

  • NOG Admin, Anton, DtroutMan and 1 other like this

#36373 is the pedal drive secure on slayer propel 10?

Posted by Mudfish on 07 May 2017 - 12:58 PM

I recently witnessed a friend of mine flip his Hobie PA in a creek and unfortunately lost his Mirage Drive, along with some other gear. Those drives are VERY expensive... all the brands are. So, I decided to install a homemade lanyard for my Slayer Propel drive unit. I already have one on my Mariner Propel. I bought all Stainless Steel items from Home Depot; eye bolt, nuts, washers. I already had the SS carabiner clip and paracord. Easy to install. Simple, but effective. I bought the SS Eye bolt a little long, thinking I would need to use a backing plate, but after drilling the 1/4" hole through the deck I realized just how thick the Slayer's deck is. I used large SS fender washers, so I really don't think it needs a backing plate.
  • Squidslayer, mike333h and k18 like this

#36246 Why NOT to buy a slayer propel 10? Real experience please! Thx

Posted by koyote on 23 April 2017 - 03:13 PM

Manno, your videos make your point.  BKB, your explanation is very clear.  I stand corrected. 


This is a great forum and very helpful to those with problems.  Apologies to all.

  • NOG Admin, boykinsbuddy and Squidslayer like this

#35855 Paddle kayaks!

Posted by boykinsbuddy on 18 February 2017 - 02:06 PM

Many of us certainly have noticed and feel the same way. Being on their pro staff we make comments every chance we get, and the suggestions are in there for a dedicated offshore paddle kayak that will handle going out beyond the breakers and also a river dedicated boat that will compete with the new offerings from other brands. It can be discouraging to see the likes of the competitors constantly coming out with new paddle kayaks and upgrades to older models while Native keeps churning out Propel variations if you aren't into the pedal-craft thing. Working at a shop like Get:Outdoors that carries all of the competitors, I definitely haven't let any interesting models go unnoticed or unpaddled. Competition is a good thing and  Native seems to be happy continuing their line of new Propel models since that is where their bread and butter is coming from right now...but with that said...there are still plenty of paddlers that don't want a pedal drive or can't afford plopping down well over $2K for a pedal drive, that do have the money to put into a new paddle kayak. Where those paddlers end up is up in the air right now since there isn't a competitive craft coming out of Native for the time being or any time soon.

  • gadgetguy1288, huntark03 and JT-Sweden like this

#35823 Brand New SP13 Owner

Posted by maturin on 13 February 2017 - 03:10 PM

Hi all...


Just wanted to introduce myself.   Just picked up my Slayer and am looking forward to getting out on the water, and wanted to see if there is any hindsight anyone would want to share before spend any more money...


Any hard lessons to learn right off the bat?  Any essentials gear wise? 


Im located in the PNW, and the winter duldrums are just starting to ease a bit.   Looking forward to a great season.

  • NOG Admin, Skully and 411sponge like this

#35079 Propel drive clamp crack

Posted by boykinsbuddy on 14 September 2016 - 10:30 AM

I just picked up a new SP13 last week and noticed that Native no longer includes the hex head torque wrench. In the included instructions, they state to use the included standard 4mm hex wrench to tighten the screws to 35 in/lbs of torque. Unfortunately my hands are not calibrated to the proper in/lbs required for the proper instructions. I will have to go and dig up a torque wrench to set the proper in/lbs.


For those that have a broken clamp out of warranty...here is the fix: https://www.amazon.c...ds=climax clamp

Slide one of these on each side of the bar and tighten away. I would also wonder if putting a small washer in the seam of the clamp around each screw would prevent the clamp from doing any flexing or closing too much during pedaling? And I wonder if putting a set of these clamps on before the issue happens if that would prevent the cracking down the road?? The needed fix is to redesign the clamp where it is a 2 part clamp like almost all of your mountain bike handlebar stems. 2 bolts on top and 2 bolts on the bottom of the clamp. I think what is breaking the clamp is the actual side to side torque created by the pedaling motion. If any part is going to break from extended flexing over time, the bar itself should be designed to be the sacrificial part that breaks OR the bolts...not the clamp. The clamp should be  the bombproof part since it is not replaceable.

  • Pelican, Squidslayer and AKFishOn like this

#34944 BerleyPro Rudder

Posted by Hannzo24 on 01 September 2016 - 10:36 AM

I've been using the BerleyPro rudder since April.  Here are my pros and cons:



  • Greatly increased turning Radius.
  • Improved tracking, but not earth shattering improvement.
  • Very durable.
  • Excellent customer service from the owner of BerleyPro.  Can't say enough about how awesome the guy is.  He is extremely proud of his work, if there are any problems at all he will take care of you.
  • No broken rudder cable yet, although it seems like this varies wildly between people.


  • $$$, obviously
  • If it gets dirty the drop down skeg does not work very good.
  • Drop down skeg can and will bend, inhibiting its ability to drop down.  However, it does bend back to shape very easily.

  • NOG Admin, Short Attention Span and Moxymo like this

#34663 First Trip Out on the Juniata River With my Ultimate 12

Posted by papanfisher on 27 July 2016 - 03:03 PM

I wanted to start a post for my new Ultimate 12. I love this boat. I got it so that I could fish the Juniata River as I did as a kid. I could not get down to it with my two prosthetic legs. The only way that I could get down to the river was to go down to the Old Arch Bridge and put in Jacks creek then float down to the river. Then I could get to the Island where we had caught tons of small mouth and muskies. I will get down there and take lots of pictures. I will post them as I know that the Ultimate will do a great job. The boat is very stable. It has been 40 years since I have been there. I hope that it is as great as it used to be. I will have to float as much as 15 miles to the new Game & Fish launch in the Narrows. That is the only way that I will be able to do the trip as it will be the only way that I can get out of the river safely. This trip is only in my mind right now. I have the boat now. I only have to use it. I have been in the house to long. I am getting the skirts for the Ultimate. I have found them. I will have to find a way to attach them as the new Ultimate that I got not longer has the tracks on it, There is a couple sets of rapids that I will have to go down to get to the launch site to get out of the river. I envt the guys that can just throw thier boats on thier shoulders and go. I can not do that anymore, Stay tuned for the actual trip.

  • NOG Admin, porcha and BabsterNJ like this

#33850 BooneDox rudder reviews

Posted by stripinator on 11 May 2016 - 08:12 PM

I believe its 3/32 stainless steel cable wire.it's double the thickness.you have to drill the holes where the wire connects to the rudder disc.I got the wire from home depot.very easy to install.wire is factory ran through a plastic housing so no need to snake thru the kayak.it took me about 45 min to complete.
  • sgtryanusmc, mike333h and TNorman2 like this

#33414 Transducer on propel drive

Posted by Camboya7 on 10 April 2016 - 08:03 AM

This is how i did mine

  • Kafn8td, Jcostin and TexomaB like this

#33074 Is this worth trying to repair

Posted by skidsteer on 19 February 2016 - 04:00 PM

A grinder with a wire brush is your friend ...


Clean everything, replace the bearings, and drive it like you stole it ... 


(bearings are pretty cheap)


Or just send it to me and call it good   :D

  • boykinsbuddy, barman and Spider Crack like this

#31951 Rudder cable snapped.

Posted by boykinsbuddy on 15 September 2015 - 09:21 AM

This may be a better option for larger rudder surface. http://nativeownersg...-rudder-design/


It is not supposed to place as much leverage on the rudder shaft which in turn would also apply to the handle parts.

  • gadgetguy1288, Eyejuggler and Rgregory like this

#30923 Loving the Slayer Propel for Bass Fishing

Posted by rocketball on 06 June 2015 - 07:17 AM

I had high hopes when I ordered this boat back in December and so far its been more than I expected. Thank you Native for designing such a great boat. Got into some awesome smallmouth fishing last weekend and put this video together! enjoy



  • NOG Admin, Mikem and Squidslayer like this

#30809 Slayer Propel 10 or 13?

Posted by J.A. Veil on 27 May 2015 - 07:02 AM

Here are some quick answers to  your questions.  I own both the SP 10 and the SP 13 so I can compare them easily.

- Does the 13 track better than the 10?  

Yes.  The longer water line and slightly narrower beam lets the SP 13 track more easily.  But the difference is not great.


- Is the 13 considerably more stable than the 10? i.e. is it better for standing and fishing?

As an old, tall, and heavy guy, I never attempt to stand in any of my kayaks.  The size and layout of the cockpit area is very similar in both boats.  I would not expect much of a difference.


- What are the advantages of the 13 over the 10?

1) The SP 13 is faster by roughly 0.5 mph at cruising speed (measured by GPS speed over ground -- I have FF/GPS units on both SP models).  At faster speeds, the SP 13 is likely to show an even greater advantage in speed.  Both pedal easily and smoothly.  I did not realize I was moving more slowly in the SP 10 until I checked the speed on the GPS.

2) If you are going to be fishing or boating in rough water (my definition  is waves >1.5 ft) the SP10 is not as stable.  When you are moving with large following seas or large seas from the rear quarter, the stern of the SP 10 can be pushed around.  If you are not operating under rough water conditions, this is not an issue at all.  

3) The SP 13 is slightly better in the water because of the onboard storage space and greater speed and stability.  But this is counteracted by the great advantage of the SP 10 on land.  The hull weight difference (57 lbs vs. 85 lbs) is very noticeable, especially when you are tired at the end of a long trip.  

4) The standard Native rudder provides decent control on the SP 10.  It is acceptable but less effective on the SP 13 -- many owners upgrade to an after-market rudder on the SP 13.


Without doing a much more detailed analysis, both versions are excellent.  You need to choose the one that best fits your needs for the way you fish, how you will store the kayak at home, and how you will transport it to the launch point.  

  • Putt&paddle, HansF4M-Germany and Tinyyak like this

#29859 A Group of Yakkers is Called ........... ????

Posted by 02seedoc on 19 January 2015 - 11:56 AM

If they are fishing, usually a pack of liars :)

  • ecw, Ridgeline and Squidslayer like this