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#9713 not roughing it anymore

Posted by YakkinSETX on 08 March 2010 - 12:27 PM

Re: not roughing it anymore Very nice! We enjoy going camping, problem is we haven't been in over two years. Life just keeps us busy with work and two teenagers in school. We are going to try to get out this spring.
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#1022 not roughing it anymore

Posted by sixstring on 08 March 2010 - 08:17 AM

A while back I'd unroll my sleeping bag and sleep by the fire or under a tarp, those days are past. :( This is my roughing it now. The tent has a tunnel so I can attach it to the tail gate of my Element. Comfy boat, comfy camp this is the way for me now.
  • GKING, RubyeEscave, Keshiatus and 8 others like this

#30824 White Bass from my Slayer Propel 13

Posted by redfishross on 28 May 2015 - 07:32 AM

Great day on the river !
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#27408 Attention Slayer Propel Owners who fish the salt water!

Posted by JohnKiffmeyer on 05 May 2014 - 04:35 PM

Hi Riddler... John Kiffmeyer here from Native Watercraft. I'm the Propel Product Manager and noticed the problem you were having with our drive. I'm very disappointed to hear you have been having rust issues and would like to help you in any way I can to resolve them. The Propel unit was designed to work in a salt water environment and this is definitely not common. I hear you that other have had this problem and we are constantly working to improve our system. However, the simple fact is that your Propel bearing is having rust issues and it's not right. I will work to make it right for you and get you any information or parts that you need. If you do choose to go find your own bearing, that is a trade number 6203, dimensions 17 x 40 x 12mm. A couple of things I should mention: The bearing is not "rusted" into the cap. It is bonded into place. This is necessary to keep it from moving under the load of the helical gears and the thrust/radial load caused by them. If you do remove the bearing, use Loctite 638 to bond the new bearing into place inside the cap, and make sure to use the recommend primer as there will generally be some residual oil on the new bearing and it needs to be removed. Also, the caps have Blue Loctite on the threads to keep the caps from vibrating loose during shipping, trailer carrying, and just general use. I realize that makes it difficult to remove, but it's also what keeps it solid. There is an o-ring that compresses when the cap is tight, and that adds drag to the system as you loosen it as well. It sounds as though the amount of force you had to use to remove the cap was more than normal, and I will look into that as well. One quick note on the grease, if you are not going to use the Native Watercraft recommended Teflon grease, than I recommend that you do a compatibility testing with it to make sure it doesn't cause the gear grease to separate. Not all greases are compatible and if they cause each other to separate it can cause more damage than greasing generally solves. Which is why we recommend only using the Finish Line Teflon Lubricant. I hear you and recognize the issues you are having, I realize it is frustrating and I am here to help you in any way possible. Please let me know how I can be of assistance. Best regards, John
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#35656 Paddle Storage

Posted by Bradleto on 10 January 2017 - 11:45 AM

Yes, this is an attached photo of a Slayer Propel 10 where its owner unscrewed the handle on the starboard side, then mounted cam lock paddle holders and then re-mounted the handle. As I recall, it might take a slightly longer screw.


The advantages in my opinion are: 1) the paddle isn't broken down into two pieces so it is more quickly available; 2) it is close at hand; 3) it keeps free track you might need for other things; and 4) it is one of the more elegant and attractive set-ups.


I like this slightly more than a similar set-up where bungee cord secures the paddle.




[/URL]"> http://Paddle%20mount%20alternative_zpsw41un50e

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#35158 Rudder cable snapped.

Posted by chevybob20 on 25 September 2016 - 08:36 PM

OK, I've just read more about wire cables than I care to admit. To make a long story short, Native is using a cable of a 1x19 design. This cable is not rated to be used with a pulley which is exactly the application it is employed. This is because the stiffness of the design is not rated to handle the fatigue causing premature failure. Furthermore, if slack is introduced in the cable, extra fatigue is introduced at the set screw causing even worse life of the cable. I also believe that the stresses added by banging the rudder during loading/unloading and launching happen more than most yakkers are aware of or care to admit.


This might be an oversight by Native. If I read correctly, they changed from a 2 piece cable designed rudder control (a pure push-pull design) to a one piece drive cable pulley design. In a "push - pull" application, the cable (1x19 construction) was correct. When they instituted a pulley in the design, they should have switched to a 7x7 design.


I recommend using a 7x7, 1.5mm, 302/304 Stainless Steel  cable if you use the yak in a salt environment. Replace the cable every 2 to 3 years regardless as standard maintenance.


If you only use your yak in fresh water, I recommend a galvanized steel cable, 7x7, 1.5mm. Galvanized steel cables are stronger than the stainless cables and exhibit longer life under fatigue wear like when used with a pulley. Replace the cables every 2 - 3 years as regular maintenance.



Here are my references:






Page 64 of the below linked book talks about not using 1x19 cable over a pulley

https://books.google... pulley&f=false  

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#35079 Propel drive clamp crack

Posted by boykinsbuddy on 14 September 2016 - 10:30 AM

I just picked up a new SP13 last week and noticed that Native no longer includes the hex head torque wrench. In the included instructions, they state to use the included standard 4mm hex wrench to tighten the screws to 35 in/lbs of torque. Unfortunately my hands are not calibrated to the proper in/lbs required for the proper instructions. I will have to go and dig up a torque wrench to set the proper in/lbs.


For those that have a broken clamp out of warranty...here is the fix: https://www.amazon.c...ds=climax clamp

Slide one of these on each side of the bar and tighten away. I would also wonder if putting a small washer in the seam of the clamp around each screw would prevent the clamp from doing any flexing or closing too much during pedaling? And I wonder if putting a set of these clamps on before the issue happens if that would prevent the cracking down the road?? The needed fix is to redesign the clamp where it is a 2 part clamp like almost all of your mountain bike handlebar stems. 2 bolts on top and 2 bolts on the bottom of the clamp. I think what is breaking the clamp is the actual side to side torque created by the pedaling motion. If any part is going to break from extended flexing over time, the bar itself should be designed to be the sacrificial part that breaks OR the bolts...not the clamp. The clamp should be  the bombproof part since it is not replaceable.

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#33481 Transporting 13' Slayer

Posted by Aeroshots on 14 April 2016 - 02:38 PM

I tend to go a little overboard, but this system works for me.

Attached Files

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#29686 Sheepshead in the Mariner

Posted by Mudfish on 22 December 2014 - 08:58 PM

Here's a decent Sheepshead I recently caught from my Mariner in shallow water over a shell bottom.

Attached Files

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#37518 Horizontal Groove Tracks Under the Seat

Posted by donga on 27 January 2018 - 08:10 AM

If I had them on mine I would attempt to make a "drawer" of some type that used the tracks as slides.
It would be handy to have some rigs / jigs / tools under the seat in a drawer that could slide out for access.


Like this?

Attached Files

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#36411 2017 Manta Ray propel review

Posted by Scooty Puff Jr on 15 May 2017 - 07:53 AM

Hey guys,  just wanted to jump in and offer up my review of the 2017 Manta Ray Propel 12.  I struggled to find much in the way of reviews of the boat prior to my purchase, it seems all the information coming out is for the Titan this year (rightfully so I guess).  I made a couple video's of my 2017 Lizard Lick so hopefully it can help someone else make the right decision.  Let me know if you have any questions or if you think of something I could add.  I haven't started rigging her yet so I am up for suggestions.  Sorry the video is in 2 parts, I couldn't get GoPro Studio to play nice with the full video so I ended up editing it 3 or 4 times before I decided to split it up.


 Pt. 1


Pt. 2  

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#36377 Amigos, I need your help!!!

Posted by Engleman on 08 May 2017 - 03:29 PM

After a long journey, lots of research and $$ on tools, and much wringing of hands and gnashing of teeth, I got the drive disassembled. Inspected everything. Surprisingly, nothing was loose. The crank bearings, however, were rusted and noisy and have since been replaced. Everything else looked pretty good. The propeller drive cartridge was immaculate. No grease, no corrosion, no nada. So I cleaned and re-applied grease to everything and buttoned it all up.

Here's where it gets interesting. I turned over my yak to ffill in some gouges from a fishing trip to the coast and noticed that my transducer, which had been mounted down through the forward port scupper, had come partially loose and had somehow turned itself sidewise into the water slipstream. The admin of this site had originally suggested cavitation or perhaps ventilation as a reason for the slipping, so I GTS'd (Googled That S--t) causes of cavitation and ventilation. Lo, and behold, one possible cause listed was an obstruction (such as a transducer) just forward of the propeller.

So...I relocated my transducer by attaching it to the bottom of the hull inside the forward hatch on a flat spot; knelt down and said a little prayer to Poseidon, sacrificed a small crayfish and a tadpole, and went out to see if all my efforts had stopped the slipping. Whatever it was worked. I suspect it was never the Propel drive, but rather the skewed transducer. Who'd 've thunk it? It gave me a chance to collect all the tools and bearings I will ever need now, and I know the Propel drive inside and out.

Thanks to all of you for your info and suggestions. Just in time for the kingfish and cobia.
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#36215 where can i find best price for a propel 10?

Posted by J.A. Veil on 17 April 2017 - 10:33 AM

 Here are a couple of thoughts.


1) Native controls retail pricing through their dealers.  All dealers are supposed to offer the same base pricing on the current model year's kayaks.  A dealer may be able to sweeten a deal for a buyer by offering accessories at a discount or including some other type of service.  Shipping costs, if you do not purchase at the dealer's store, is another area where costs can be juggled somewhat.  


For kayaks that are older than the current model year but are still new, dealers often have more flexibility in costs. 


2)  This website is run by Get Outdoors, a Native retailer (I have no affiliation with Get Outdoors, but recognize their efforts in creating and maintaining this wonderful information resource).  It is probably not a great idea to ask questions about which dealers will give you a lower price on this site.  If that is your goal, you can do plenty of Internet searching on your own.  

  • boykinsbuddy, Mikem and k18 like this

#35307 Installed my Seadek tonight

Posted by neckbone on 17 October 2016 - 06:51 PM

Got my winter project done early. Was bored, so I decided to tackle the Seadek. Bought a kit from them a few months ago when they were having their clearance sale. Think I paid about $50 for the entire kit.

I initially tried to tape half of the first pad down then stick the other half and move to the rest like the YouTube videos say. I found it much easier to free hand it. Think the entire thing took me 10 minutes, at the most. I'm really happy with how it turned out. Sorry, I completely forgot to take before pictures.

Attached Files

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#33850 BooneDox rudder reviews

Posted by stripinator on 11 May 2016 - 08:12 PM

I believe its 3/32 stainless steel cable wire.it's double the thickness.you have to drill the holes where the wire connects to the rudder disc.I got the wire from home depot.very easy to install.wire is factory ran through a plastic housing so no need to snake thru the kayak.it took me about 45 min to complete.
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#31951 Rudder cable snapped.

Posted by boykinsbuddy on 15 September 2015 - 09:21 AM

This may be a better option for larger rudder surface. http://nativeownersg...-rudder-design/


It is not supposed to place as much leverage on the rudder shaft which in turn would also apply to the handle parts.

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#30950 Slayer accessories and fish storage

Posted by ssuajk on 09 June 2015 - 12:41 AM

1) SuperNova Fish lights are good if you are trying to light up an area so your buddy can cast towards you and catch fish under your yak. As far as for you, the lights aren't of much use unless you just want to dump your rods and use a hand line near your yak. I would recommend these if you are invited to be in a river parade.

2) SeaDek is great, I have the camo kit but now there are other manufactures out there that make kits for half the price.

3) Native bow bag is just to short for most of the fish I catch, there are longer ones like Surf to Summit but I use Boone Monster fish bag, it folds easy and I can break it out once I have a keeper, until then I only use half the bag for drinks. I use those freezer gel ice packs for my bag they stay cold, they float and don't make a mess.

P.S. That little Native cooler is fine if you are catching Bream or Smelt but the keepers I go after won't fit in that cooler and I have to keep the fish whole in case Fish and Game want to do their job.

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#30809 Slayer Propel 10 or 13?

Posted by J.A. Veil on 27 May 2015 - 07:02 AM

Here are some quick answers to  your questions.  I own both the SP 10 and the SP 13 so I can compare them easily.

- Does the 13 track better than the 10?  

Yes.  The longer water line and slightly narrower beam lets the SP 13 track more easily.  But the difference is not great.


- Is the 13 considerably more stable than the 10? i.e. is it better for standing and fishing?

As an old, tall, and heavy guy, I never attempt to stand in any of my kayaks.  The size and layout of the cockpit area is very similar in both boats.  I would not expect much of a difference.


- What are the advantages of the 13 over the 10?

1) The SP 13 is faster by roughly 0.5 mph at cruising speed (measured by GPS speed over ground -- I have FF/GPS units on both SP models).  At faster speeds, the SP 13 is likely to show an even greater advantage in speed.  Both pedal easily and smoothly.  I did not realize I was moving more slowly in the SP 10 until I checked the speed on the GPS.

2) If you are going to be fishing or boating in rough water (my definition  is waves >1.5 ft) the SP10 is not as stable.  When you are moving with large following seas or large seas from the rear quarter, the stern of the SP 10 can be pushed around.  If you are not operating under rough water conditions, this is not an issue at all.  

3) The SP 13 is slightly better in the water because of the onboard storage space and greater speed and stability.  But this is counteracted by the great advantage of the SP 10 on land.  The hull weight difference (57 lbs vs. 85 lbs) is very noticeable, especially when you are tired at the end of a long trip.  

4) The standard Native rudder provides decent control on the SP 10.  It is acceptable but less effective on the SP 13 -- many owners upgrade to an after-market rudder on the SP 13.


Without doing a much more detailed analysis, both versions are excellent.  You need to choose the one that best fits your needs for the way you fish, how you will store the kayak at home, and how you will transport it to the launch point.  

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#29874 A Group of Yakkers is Called ........... ????

Posted by boykinsbuddy on 20 January 2015 - 11:10 PM

When you are out there on your own it is called....ready for this? Theropy. When you are with a gang of yaks...it is called....'group theropy'!

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#29555 Attention Slayer Propel Owners who fish the salt water!

Posted by J.A. Veil on 24 November 2014 - 03:41 PM

I have hesitated stepping into this discussion, but I do want to share some of my own experience with Native as a company and with my two Propel drives.  I have had a Slayer Propel 13 for the past year with no rust or corrosion on the Propel.  My new Slayer Propel 10, which I have had for a month, has no rust or corrosion either.  Most of my trips are made in the estuarine salinity of the Chesapeake Bay. I rinse off the Propel with a garden hose after each trip.  


I bought my first Native kayak -- a Manta Ray 14 -- in 2008.  I loved that kayak but in 2012 had some issues with it.  I took the kayak to my local dealer where I had purchased it.  They saw something wrong and told me they would notify Native about the issue.  Within a week, I received word that Native would take care of my problem without hesitation or question. Native's resolution was prompt and exceeded my expectations -- and this was for a 4-year old kayak.  That was one of the reasons I signed up to join Native's Pro Staff team.  I think their products have high quality and match up well with the competition.  Their customer support when I needed it was outstanding.


Going back to the Propel concerns, I think that John Kiffmeyer expressed things well.  Most Propels do not show corrosion or rusting under normal use conditions and when basic rinsing and lubing are performed.   As in many complex manufactured products, a small percentage of the Propel units did not perform as well as they were supposed to perform -- at least in regards to the rusting.  John explained the correct procedure for seeking resolution -- contact your dealer and have them evaluate the issue.  The dealer can contact Native and begin a process to resolve the issue.  Although posting complaints on chat boards can be useful in identifying problems, posting there without also doing the dealer contact can turn into unproductive finger-pointing and may not take care of the owner's issues.  I hope that those individuals who own Native products that have issues can get them worked out.

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